Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i started to do something similar but was going to use a full ecu. i bought and installed a shift kit valve body but after driving the car for about half an hour i took the shift kit back off because i found it too harsh and rather irritating to drive around normally. my understanding is that it does remove the need to have the auto computer retard the timing on the gear change but i would suggest having a ride in a car with the kit before you jump in.

i started to do something similar but was going to use a full ecu. i bought and installed a shift kit valve body but after driving the car for about half an hour i took the shift kit back off because i found it too harsh and rather irritating to drive around normally. my understanding is that it does remove the need to have the auto computer retard the timing on the gear change but i would suggest having a ride in a car with the kit before you jump in.

MMM..alot of people say its just fine with the stage 2 kit???......my question is if its worth doing and then getting a powerfc to tune it with, as some on the forum says this will work for the auto?.........also, is a shift kit faster at changing gears then say a manual??

i started to do something similar but was going to use a full ecu. i bought and installed a shift kit valve body but after driving the car for about half an hour i took the shift kit back off because i found it too harsh and rather irritating to drive around normally. my understanding is that it does remove the need to have the auto computer retard the timing on the gear change but i would suggest having a ride in a car with the kit before you jump in.

What exactly did you install?

Also, you seriously spent hours replacing the valvebody, fluid and whatever else and then changed back after half an hours driving? Are you that impatient?

First of all, you learn how to drive it differently after a couple of weeks which removes the majority of the harshness, second of all, I don't believe you. Maybe you should buy a commonwhore with slushbox. It should be nice and smooth for you.

Im seriously considering this option, as it would cost me near $4000 for a manual conversion, which i cant justify at this stage....

Heres what im thinking of getting:

Stage II vavlebody upgrade

oversize auto trans cooler

2800rpm stall converter

maybe a b&m shifter...anyone used these before????

Also, whats the electronic controller that MV auto supplies as well?,

Yeah that's why I rebuilt my auto when I blew it instead of doing the conversion but then I converted later anyway!

Mine was an R34 so already had the steering wheel shift buttons. I'm told that the B&M's are work of engineering art.

Id be doing exactly what you plan if you dont want to do the manual conversion.

Obviously you never gave it time to adjust to way the shift kit works. Im with abobob did you actually instal it cause typically you can't return an entire valve body after its been installed and driven around!

any pics of the B&M shifter in your car(prior to going manual)???.....im really considering the option, and what would the benfit be of going the ratchet shiter anyway if i went along with the valvebody upgrade???

And also, what type of ecu did you run to get into 12's in an auto mate?, i just need some good advice, im nearly sold on keeping auto, and strengthening.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...