Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanx mate ...

yeah .. u can feel some increas in power ... some times i put very cooled water in the tank just to test .... damn u feel alot of power.. am thinking ..u can put some ice in the tank.. lol that would be cool :closedeyes:

So I was thinking about this, and then I was thinking about my little car fridge getting a bit run over by a trailer rendering it working, but ugly. Then I thought, I could possibly use the ugly car fridge to cool the water for the intercooler sprayer.

I figure there are two ways to do this.

1. Remove the metal element from the fridge and have it sitting under the water bottle I use for the sprayers.

2. Cut a rectangular hole out of the bottom of the water bottle and fit the cooling element in there, sealing the edges with silicon or something.

I think the second method would be more affective as there is direct contact between the cooling element and the water, however I am not sure wether it would be ok to have the element in direct contact with liquid. (I guess it would be ok as long as none of the other components were exposed to water, anyone know?)

Do you think this would have a worthwile effect on the temperature of the water?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165930-would-this-work/
Share on other sites

why dont you just do the cheaper option and use garden water sprayers, your fmic will be colder even with normal temp water just due to the air hitting the water

Thats how I set it up, I just noticed when I was fiddling with it that the water was quite warm due to the engine bay temperature. If the water temperatutre could be significantly decreased, wouldn't the performance increase?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165930-would-this-work/#findComment-3073463
Share on other sites

I would relocate your resevoir to outside the engine bay. Have you tested the "fridge" to see how cold the water can get, and more importantly how fast it cools a litre or 2 of water?

That may be just as effective.

I haven't tested the fridge as such, because it said on the instructions no to fill it wth liquid (I assume this is because it is not 100% sealed). It does cool 9 cans down noticeably within 20 mins or so, or if they are coolish already it will cool more. I figure if the car was cold when it was started, the fridge would at least maintain the cool temperature of the water, combating the engine heat that would otherwise be warming the water.

I guess mounting the resovoir outside the enginebay in a place with good airflow would have the same effect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165930-would-this-work/#findComment-3073470
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...