Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I've just had new HKS GTSS turbos fitted to my 1989 R32 GTR and when I hold a constant speed at either around 60, 80 or 100 kmph I get air pulsing from the turbos and AFMs (I think). The sound comes from the front left hand side of the engine bay and only comes on with light but steady throttle application. It sounds like an old steam train engine - chushh, chushh, chushh etc.

The current setup is:

HKS GTSS turbos

HKS dumps

Apexi 125mm FMIC

Apexi front pipes

3" Turbo back exhaust

Aftermarket coils

Aftermarket ECU

HKS EVC set at 12psi & 15 psi

Platnium spark plugs

Standard AFMs

Standard injectors

Standard engine

Blitz BOVs

The car made ~235rwkW @ 12psi and 272rwkW @ 15psi (it also made 292rwkW @ 17psi but I asked them to keep it below 280rwkW).

It also stalls when I slow down after getting the revs above 5000rpm. The revs drop below 500rpm and I have to heel-toe to keep the car from stalling. The workshop has adjusted the Blitz BOVs and this seems to have improved the problem but it still happens. Lastly when the workshop fitted the turbos they didn't use the black hose that comes with the GTSS turbo kit. What is that for?

i would say it's mostly tuning. could be the bovs, but then again I've been running twin blitz bovs for nearly 3 years and never had any problems or stalling, or unstable idle etc. so they can be made to work properly.

I've had a similar problem with the GT-SS on my gtr. Turned out that the actuators on each turbo were not opening at the same time causing them to fight against each other. It was only evident when just coming onto boost at lightish throttle.

Put the stock BOVs back on there, it improved as you said when they fiddled with the blitz...

So go back to OEM, its the best item on the market anyhow

The Blitz BOVs were on the car when I bought it. I don't have the standard ones to put back on.

I've had a similar problem with the GT-SS on my gtr. Turned out that the actuators on each turbo were not opening at the same time causing them to fight against each other. It was only evident when just coming onto boost at lightish throttle.

What did you (or the workshop) do to fix the problem?

The rods have to be adjusted so the wastegate opens at the same pressure. It's on off the car job. They should have been setup, or at least checked, before they were put on. That's about the limit of my knowledge.

I'm not saying 100% that this is what's happening on yours. Can you get back to the tuner and get them to see find anything? If it's only just happened after you've had the gtss installed might be something simple. Hose left loose or a leak somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...