Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:P Praying to the skyline gods for help.

I'm having issues with the boost on my rb25det, it has me totally stumped.

Mods: Factory turbo/wastegate

Front mount Intercooler.

Pod filter

2.5" exhuast from turbo to cat, 3" from there back

Problem: Overboosting

To diagnose the problem I am running a line directly from the plenum to the actuator (no boost controller). The wastegate flapper is moving freely (I have had the down pipe off and inspected the internals).

I took the wastegate actuator off and had it tested by a local shop who told me it is holding pressure.

Some people have told me that adding the exhuast and pod filter could make it boost higher however I fail to see how this is possible as my boost gauge (1 of 2) is reading off the same port running as the actuator. Today I let it boost up to .90 bar and it definetly did not level off.

Finally it seems that everything is pointing towards the actuator being faulty, It isnt obviously jambing as I can pull it open by hand but somethings going on.

If anybody can add anything I've missed it would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166033-25det-wastegate-issues/
Share on other sites

To determine if it is the actuator simply disconnect it from the flapper.

Mine made almost 7psi with the flapper jammed open but it is a larger motor, a smaller motor may make less boost.

Good call, I will give it a try, that should prove it! :(

Thanks Cubes

does your cooler pipeing have any nasty bends or size changes in pipe i had the same sort of thing which tormented me for 6 months before finally figuring out it was the pipe work. just my experiance with this issue hope it helps

does your cooler pipeing have any nasty bends or size changes in pipe i had the same sort of thing which tormented me for 6 months before finally figuring out it was the pipe work. just my experiance with this issue hope it helps

Interesting, I brought a complete fmic kit, none of the bends seemed too harsh however I will bear it in mind. 6 months of not understanding whats going on may cause me to drive it off a cliff (whilst overboosting) :(

Thanks for your input

Ok before I was stumped, now I'm just totally confused. I've completed 2 more tests tonight.

1. using compressed air and a regulator I emulated boost to the actuator, It worked perfectly. Around .5 bar it actuated and moved the the flapper effortlessly.

2. As suggested by Cubes I disconnected the actuator and wired the flapper open........it's still overboosting!! I only took it up to .70bar however I am fairly certain it would have kept going if I hadn't of buttoned off.

Any other ideas, Could a blockage in the exhuast system cause this kind of issue?

I'm kinda hoping somebody will point out the obvious cause, I'm lost! :(

Where exactly did you run your hose from the actuactor to? Check that it does have pressure. Check every hose that was connected to the actuactor. There might be a leak that bleed the the pressure line to the actuator. Did your intercooler have a nipple in the inlet pipe that run to the throttle? I suspect its the pressure hose to the actuator that is creating that problem.

Flapper is nice and free and I wired it fully open for this test. I had the dump pipe off in the weekend everything looked fine. What I'm now wondering is if the cat has fallen to bits, could the extra back pressure cause overboosting... Yes I am totally grasping at straws :worship:

Thanks

Where exactly did you run your hose from the actuactor to? Check that it does have pressure. Check every hose that was connected to the actuactor. There might be a leak that bleed the the pressure line to the actuator. Did your intercooler have a nipple in the inlet pipe that run to the throttle? I suspect its the pressure hose to the actuator that is creating that problem.

Hi recce

This all started because while doing the cooler I also went to install an HKS evc4. I put a nipple into the right angle pipe off the top of the compressor. After it failed to work I took the controller out of the equation and plumbed the actuator directly to the plenum (to the nipple below the factory blow off valve line normally used for the carbon canaster, with a brand new length of pipe)

I have also swapped them around and even put the boost gauge in line so I'm fairly sure now that the actuator is actuating. :worship:

Now that I have showen that even with the wastegate wired open its still overboosting I think there is something else amiss

I actually had one of these turbos on my L28 powered 280zx, It went really well and certainly never had any problems like this. Thanks for your time fellas and if anyone has ever seen anything like this please let me know, cheers

Special thanks to cubes :laughing-smiley-014:

Mate! I don't think the the nipple you tapped into for the actuator is the correct one. Try this last thing before you made any conclusion. Tap it to the hose that connect to the factory BOV. you will need a "T" piece to do that. If that fails, it is something that I cannot help you with. There is a high chance that you have tapped into the wrong nipple. Remember, TAP IT TO THE HOSE OF THE BOV.

Mate! I don't think the the nipple you tapped into for the actuator is the correct one. Try this last thing before you made any conclusion. Tap it to the hose that connect to the factory BOV. you will need a "T" piece to do that. If that fails, it is something that I cannot help you with. There is a high chance that you have tapped into the wrong nipple. Remember, TAP IT TO THE HOSE OF THE BOV.

No no I have. Infact at the moment it is connected directly to the port normally used for the BOV. I have proved that the actuator is getting boost pressure and that the actuator is moving. As Cubes pointed out if you wire the flapper open then it definitely should not overboost.

Its not a dodgy boost gauge is it?

Got me stumped otherwise.

Any restriction in the exhaust should cause lack of boost.

GT

Thanks zebra

I wish it was a dodgy gauge, that would be easy lol

I have two, one is a blitz mechanical, and the other is an HKS digital, both reading about the same. I think I'll just drive it into a wall :worship:

thanks brother.

how odd..

So, just to get this right, the waste gate is wired so the flapper is in the open postition..

Then there should be no way that thing should be climbing in boost pressure reguardless of where u get the signal from.

arrghh.. question,

can the wastegate actually 'open' all the way? I mean is it only opening say half way or two thirds?

Are you sure there is nothing in the wastegate dump pipe that is blocking gas flow?

well thats all i got! not much help huh?

if the wastegate and actuator are working fine, why not look at other possibilities?

haha i was about to suggest boost controller but u said u dont have one.

i would check vacuum lines and pretty much anything looking for any leaks splits or anything like that.

but hey im no expert.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...