Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, decided not to go ahead with my stereo install, so I'm putting it all up for sale.

All of the items for sale are BRAND NEW, and have never been installed, or wired up. Everything comes in its original packaging.

1. Pioneer bridgeable 4 channel amplifier - $250

-120W x 4/300W x 2 MAX POWER

-60W x 4/150W x 2, 20Hz-20kHz, 0.2%/0.8%THD,4Î

-LPF (80Hz, -12dB/oct)

-HPF (80Hz, -12dB/oct)

-RCA OUTPUT (FULL RANGE)

IMG_2118.jpg

2. Pioneer mono power amplifier - $300

-500W x 1,4Î/800W x 1,2Î MAX POWER

-250W x 1,4Î/360w x 1,2Î 20-240Hz, 0.5%/0.8%THD

-LPF (40-240Hz, -12dB/oct)

-BASS BOOST (50Hz, 0-12dB)

IMG_2117.jpg

3. Pioneer 16cm 2-Way 250 Watt Component Speaker (Competition Series) - $350 **SOLD**

-16cm 2-Component Speaker System

-250 Watts Max. Power Handling

-Aramid Fibre + Pulp Cone Woofer

-25mm Polyester Fibre Soft Dome Tweeter

- Woofer [Midrange(Midbass)] Diameter: 6.5 inch

- Tweeter Diameter: 1 inch Soft Dome

- Impedance 4 Ohms

- Sensitivity 90 dB/W (1m)

- Frequency Response 25Hz to 32000Hz

- Gross Weight 3.24Kg

IMG_2114.jpg

4. Pionner 16 cm 4-way speakers - $100 ** SOLD **

-4-Way Configuration

-260 Watts Max. Power Handling

-50 Watts Nominal Rating

-Frequency Response 30 ~ 33,000 Hz.

-Efficiency 91 dB

-Impedance 4 Ohm

-f0 (Lowest Resonant Frequency) 80 Hz.

-Crossover frequency 5,000Hz

-Mounting Depth 57mm

-Dimensions 171 (diam.) x 84mm

-Weight 1.84 Kg per pair

IMG_2116.jpg

5. Pioneer 12" C-Type Subwoofer (1000W) $100

-Composite IMPP cone using interlaced Aramid fibre with reinforcement arcs

-Wide-roll, 3-layer fibre woven radial surround

-Dual mass high power magnet

-Extended and vented pole yoke

-Enclosure use

-Ohm Rating: 4Ω

-Frequency response 18 - 500 Hz

-Sensitivity (1W/1m) 89 dB

-Recommended sealed enclosure (Litres) 24 - 49.6

-Lowest resonance frequency (FS) 32.6

-Maximum input power 1.000 W

-Nominal input power 400 W

-Woofer size (cm) 30 cm

IMG_2112.jpg

Everything available separately, or take it all for $600

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166326-fs-pioneer-car-audio/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...