Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$400,vgc,still has paint on comp wheel,no sideways play,

forumsales026.jpg

forumsales023.jpg

forumsales025.jpg

hey im very keen on ur turbo mine blew on my rb20 on thursday i got a replacemtn for it but turns out the coolant inlet and return fittings on my car are too small for the new turbo are u able to measure the diameter of the banjo bolts that go into the coolant galories on the turbo i can see the bolts on the pic but cant see size. please get back to me need my car on the raod by monday

Bakker - There's a tutorial on changing the rb20 turbo over to the RB25 .

I'm sure it says everything is a straight swap out, ie use the same lines, except the elbow

Don't need the turbo but I'll ask for everyone else sake cause they'll prolly ask...

1) Do you have elbow?

2) Location?

Good luck with the sale :sick:

Bakker - There's a tutorial on changing the rb20 turbo over to the RB25 .

I'm sure it says everything is a straight swap out, ie use the same lines, except the elbow

Don't need the turbo but I'll ask for everyone else sake cause they'll prolly ask...

1) Do you have elbow?

2) Location?

Good luck with the sale ;)

well ill the secound the fact that they r not a straight bolt on the oil feed is the same size

the coolant banjo bolts from an rb20 slide straight ing an rb25 turbo without even touching the thread

im also chasing the banjo bolts and water line for an rb25 turbo

well ill the secound the fact that they r not a straight bolt on the oil feed is the same size

the coolant banjo bolts from an rb20 slide straight ing an rb25 turbo without even touching the thread

im also chasing the banjo bolts and water line for an rb25 turbo

this guy knows what im on about. im wondering if the turbo that iv got isnt an rb25 turbo and not an rb20 turbo. hmmmm. im gonna try putting a helicoil in and bring the port down 2 mm. the port is 18mm and the banjo bolts i have are 16 mm, it would be good if the banjo fittings were oversized so i could put and 18mm banjo bolt in.

check out the tutorial - osme of the older r ugly poos used 22 m banjos, in that case, you'll hae to source some either later ugly poo lines, or rb25 lines. the later ones are 24 mm

later ugly poos have the right size banjos. I've even seen 89 modesl with the right size bolts - I think only the very early 89 models had the 22 mm

Looking at the turbo, how do you tell from pictures whether it's a series 1 or 2.

I know series 2 had a nylon compressor wheel, ie do we look for a dull compressor wheel whereas the series 1 are shiney? Or did they change the design of the compressor blades making it easier to distinguish?

Looking at the turbo, how do you tell from pictures whether it's a series 1 or 2.

I know series 2 had a nylon compressor wheel, ie do we look for a dull compressor wheel whereas the series 1 are shiney? Or did they change the design of the compressor blades making it easier to distinguish?

for 1 the wheel will make a plastic noise when u hit it u can see the difference and feel the difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...