Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Im keen for one mate please pm me details and let me know how to pay and how much postage is as i live in Hamilton, New Zealand.

also can i pay you via PayPal

im in

No Problem, added

Count me in...pm me details about payment etc jin man :rofl:

Added, and ill get payments closer to the due date, all at once.

Im keen for one mate please pm me details and let me know how to pay and how much postage is as i live in Hamilton, New Zealand.

also can i pay you via PayPal

Possibly another $5 for postage but I think you should be ok with just the $300 delivered. Sorry mate, I don't have papal, but Im sure we can sort something out. Also added to the list

How are they wired up exactly? I read something once about it confusing the CAS instead, causing it to have the desired effect. Also what about the turbo's and lifters? I also 'heard' (so who knows really) that the post-combustion in the manifold/turbo/exhaust can cause force the lifters open and damage them eventually, and also doing damage to the exhaust wheel of the turbo.. like the old school ceramic ones on my 32gtst. I'm not trying to pick holes or anything, becuase I'd love one, I even have a 'special' cat waiting to go on but I'm a little worried about my turbo/lifters, could you shed some light on the subject?

WOW! Thats way more info than I know, I wish I could shed some light on that.

As for wiring it up yes im 99% sure there is a wire that goes to the CAS but Im still to wire mine into my car due to lack of time. I hope to have it in by the weekend, I might have some more info for you then.

Ill keep searching to hopefully answer your questions soon.

Ill go ahead and buy the first batch of 10 and then hope that I sell the other 2 over the next couple of weeks. Ill send out a PM with payment details and a phone number as well as postage details and we can go from there,

This is still open to new buyers but I dont really want the first group of people waiting too long.

sorry to hijack,

but I've got 1 unsused Bee*R, selling for $300 as well delivered... I don't want to risk damaging my engine.. changed my mind abt it...wimp out~~

any news on how good they are for ur turbo etc? coz if they are all good then im in. cheers.

Some people will say they are bad others say they make no difference. Think about how many times you bang the limiter in a week, I cant see it doing any damage as you are hardly ever on it. But saying that *IF* it did have any negative effects on your turbo what you rather be replacing your turbo or your engine?

PMs have been sent to everybody on the list. If you didn't receive yours please let me know.

Edited by JiN_MaN

Another Update:

Bee*Rs have been bought but are still yet to be sent out. Ill be sure to update as soon as I know they have been sent,

Sorry for the delay, as always, got any questions let me hear them.

Bee*R are being sent out wednesday. Usually give to 5 working days for postage.

thanks for not being on my back to know whats happening. Its made my job much easier not having to reply to 10 PM's every time I log on.

No probs.

I will be in Adelaide this weekend. If there is any tail wind the stuffs get there early could you let me know :cool:

I will be happy to pick it up and save you some freight cost too

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...