Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats true lol, my friend was telling me about some thing about winggate or some thing similar if u know what i mean, that it sapposed to be big as a 50cent Piece but its bigger than that so he assumed its a big turbo,

but who cares like you siad and my girlfriend lol, its not how big it is, its how you use it, lol so true :ninja:

When i drove this car, i took it to 110 in second gear and blew the doors of this HOLDEN LOL HAHAHAHA, could it be stock turbo and forged pistons?? i know the 4" to 3" Blitz exhaust system got to do with it as well, what you think???

When i drove this car, i took it to 110 in second gear and blew the doors of this HOLDEN LOL HAHAHAHA, could it be stock turbo and forged pistons?? i know the 4" to 3" Blitz exhaust system got to do with it as well, what you think???

A standard skyline can do 107kmh before it hits the rev limiter in 2nd gear from memory.

What does forged pistons have to do with it?

This post surely can't be serious.

ohok i didint know that! i am new so please no offending comments. i dont know much about skylines atm.

Can anyone say, if forged piston play apart in anything for the turbo ??? example engine can handle the boost so on?

Edited by BRUNSKIGTST

Turn your baseball cap around so the peak is at the front. sit back and start reading. There are rheams of good info here. Blowing off commodores wont impress anybody. There are cars on here that can blow about anything on the damn planet off.

a stock or near stock skyline is only fast compared to stock or standard geminis, lasers etc. I should Know, I have one but thanks to the wealth of knowledge available through this forum I am in the throes of putting together a nice quick ride and I will only buy my bits once.

I feel for the poor buggers who did it without the assistance of these boards and made expensive mistake after expensive mistake.

ohok i didint know that! i am new so please no offending comments. i dont know much about skylines atm.

Can anyone say, if forged piston play apart in anything for the turbo ??? example engine can handle the boost so on?

If you have 66 posts to your name, I would say you ask way too much without reading.

Your answer is on a stock turbo you would never need forged internals, your turbo would blow before your engine if boosted too high.

Safe levels for boosting are around 12 psi on the standard r33 turbo, provided you have a sufficient intercooler, any higher and you run the risk of your turbo going bang.

Ok answered question yes it is stock, The only differences is the revisions in them, Usually the Series 2 and Series 1 different wheels on them, Hope that answered your question

Thanks guys this is all really really good help i am sure to read about more and find out how i can tune my car, but first i will have to ride it abit befor i make any modifications to the engine and learn more about my car, i got more pictures of my car in cosmetics section, if you all would like to see the body what i have done to it.

Thanks all my quiestions have been answerd :ninja::D:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...