Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 185
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i'm laughing out loud right now....no seriously, really hard. You reckon you can rev your standardish 32 GTR to 10k safely?? I wanna see pics/vids of this....

I apologise to Noel because this does belong in another thread....so mark I challenge you to create one and tell us the mods your car has that allows you to rev to 10k??

lol.. opps meant for the other comment rev to 6500rpm + 2500rpm. or whatever someone said..? lol i never said it reved to 10,000rpm (or did i..?... NO i never said 10k..) thanks matt.. but im sure a IS200 could..?

pics of polished bits noel.. :D

lol i never said it reved to 10,000rpm (or did i..?... NO i never said 10k..)

Sorry, just assumed you could add. I'll attach the quotes for you from the previous page:

7500rpm and dump... IMHO

i still can rev 2500rpm higher than that... :P

Might just be me but 7,500 + 2,500 = 10,000???

thanks matt.. but im sure a IS200 could..?

I doubt it, but unlike you I never claimed it could, did I?

Latest update on build...Tore the bottom end down today. (Thanks for the help Shane) Immaculate. Its a pity to discard some of these bits but! Ordered. and on the way. Eagle rods to replace peened cryod stockers. Jun oil pump, 6 boost himount manifold. Cams. heavier valve springs, Head is going in for solid lifter conversion as soon as the cams and springs arrive.

Cam specs Tomei solids. 260 duration, 9.1 lift.

What started out as a mild street machine has turned in to a monster. Now looking at figures in the 350/400 rwkw range.

Some f**kin wheelchair. :P

no probs old fella, something to do to 'waste' the arvo away :P (i really only do it for the rumbo's ;))

i still reckon it's gonna creep on the 500rwkw figure @~24psi

shit left would be fueling, gate, & bov and thats the main bits catered for! ;)

smy thread so I can say what i like. ;);)

fair enough then lol

So "dry sump" so you can rev the tits off it is normal huh. :P

only a few ways i'll be able to get the rb30 to rev and 1 is dry sump, the other is 2+k of machine work >_<

well nengun has these 2

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/fuel-pump-skyline (276l/h)

http://www.nengun.com/hks/fuel-pump (280l/h)

i reckon one of those 2 (i like nismo over hks) would be good to feed the surge tank, than a big yank pump feeding the fuel rail :P

You dont need to go that fair Noel...

A good old Bosch 044 fitted in the tank with a raising rate reg will do the job and keep it legal...

that's dodge/cheap and you know it col lol

why play on a knife edge with a big $ engine combo for the sake of a few hundred on a fuel system, it's a no brainer in my opinion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...