Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i picked up an r33 gtst s1. it had an audible noise (a whine) coming from the timing belt. you could only hear it when under the bonnet. i took it to local mechanic.

we took it apart and inspected the idler / tensioner bearings. these seemed to spin flawlessly in our hands. to quickly test, we put back on the timing belt, no other belts, no cover, etc, and started it. no noise. using a stethoscope we listened to idler / tensioner, no trace of the original sound. we suspected over-tightened belt.

all other belts were replaced and put it back together. turned it on, no noise for a while, but as soon as it warmed up the noise was there. the noise is always there now, regardless of being hot / cold, and mechanic still thinks its coming from the idler / tensioner.

should i go through all the hassle of pulling out the radiator, belts, crank pulley, timing belt, to replace the idler / tensioner? i'm concerned that the noise is not coming from them and i'll just be wasting my time, and money

is there any other avenue that i could investigate , perhaps someone has had a similar problem before?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167048-noise-from-timing-belt-area/
Share on other sites

you could replace the drive belts (fan belt etc). these are relatively inexpensive and if its a fresh import, its most likely they are worn anyway.

If this fixes it then you've saved yourself a lot of time and effort, and if not, well now you know they are new and you've made progress towards nailing the problem :P

hey mate i had a similar problem after replacing timing belt with a non gen item it was like the belt was too thick but it made a graunching type noise that increased frequency as revs climbed and i did the same thing took all belts off checked all bearings idlers for drive belts a/c bearings started engine with no belts on at all, noise was definetely coming from timing belt.

I sent the belt back and got a genuine item (which worked out $30 cheaper, got better than trade though) fit it all up then it was fine no matter how much tension i put on or took off the belt, weird huh???? always use genuine eh. to me it sounded like the teeth on the non gen belt were sort of too big for the cam and crank pulleys. i am not 100% sure of the exact problem but all good now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...