Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

ive heard that there is around 2 compliance places in perth that do stageas, but ive also heard that they are not exactly the most helpful of organisations.

(ben fom j-spec imports advised me of this)

i was just wondering if any WA stagea owners can give me an insight as to what places they used for compliance and how it went...

just so i can avoid any pricks with compliance.

Cheers

Kieran

note - referring to stagea rs four v/s compliance

Edited by kieran777
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167702-wa-stagea-compliance/
Share on other sites

I had my stagea complied in Perth less than 12months and i would definately NOT RECOMMEND who i used...they cost a fortune, they were slow, they were rude, they were definately not the most helpful people, not to mention that they run my car out of fuel which caused big problems and they couldnt care less!!!..They were also the only WA compliance place at that point in time!

If you want to know my story ill chuck you a PM as i cant name them on here for rules of SAU...but i would definately be looking else where instead of using these people!

Thanks for the PMs and reply guys.

It really is appreciated.

To me, it seems that the best decision to make is to have the car complied over east by a recommeded business, and have it shipped/freighted out to perth.

J-Spec advised me that the compliance market is far more competitive there,

and seeing how they can freight for around $500 to perth (due to the govt rebate) i probably wouldnt be anymore out of pocket than forking out an unjustified amount for a shitty perth compliance.

I assume that compliance over east would still enable the car to pass the pits over here, right?

Cheers

Kieran

Edited by kieran777

quite easily

you won't be the first to do it that way and you sure won't be the last

good luck with it and looking forward to seeing yet another join the ranks in WA

we are getting ours complianced in QLD , so cant YET comment on workmanship

but basically we got ours complianced in QLD and shipped over for CHEAPER than we could get it complinaced locally

got the J-spec page for your car so we can look?

did you get the 50billion photos they take too?

alrite that sounds like a good idea then.

i spose brissy compliance would be the best...boats get there first, so its gonna get the ball rolling sooner.

especially considering alot of people have done it without any hassles.

cheers for that guys!

PS the link was taken down so no pics atm sorry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...