Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

ive heard that there is around 2 compliance places in perth that do stageas, but ive also heard that they are not exactly the most helpful of organisations.

(ben fom j-spec imports advised me of this)

i was just wondering if any WA stagea owners can give me an insight as to what places they used for compliance and how it went...

just so i can avoid any pricks with compliance.

Cheers

Kieran

note - referring to stagea rs four v/s compliance

Edited by kieran777
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167702-wa-stagea-compliance/
Share on other sites

I had my stagea complied in Perth less than 12months and i would definately NOT RECOMMEND who i used...they cost a fortune, they were slow, they were rude, they were definately not the most helpful people, not to mention that they run my car out of fuel which caused big problems and they couldnt care less!!!..They were also the only WA compliance place at that point in time!

If you want to know my story ill chuck you a PM as i cant name them on here for rules of SAU...but i would definately be looking else where instead of using these people!

Thanks for the PMs and reply guys.

It really is appreciated.

To me, it seems that the best decision to make is to have the car complied over east by a recommeded business, and have it shipped/freighted out to perth.

J-Spec advised me that the compliance market is far more competitive there,

and seeing how they can freight for around $500 to perth (due to the govt rebate) i probably wouldnt be anymore out of pocket than forking out an unjustified amount for a shitty perth compliance.

I assume that compliance over east would still enable the car to pass the pits over here, right?

Cheers

Kieran

Edited by kieran777

quite easily

you won't be the first to do it that way and you sure won't be the last

good luck with it and looking forward to seeing yet another join the ranks in WA

we are getting ours complianced in QLD , so cant YET comment on workmanship

but basically we got ours complianced in QLD and shipped over for CHEAPER than we could get it complinaced locally

got the J-spec page for your car so we can look?

did you get the 50billion photos they take too?

alrite that sounds like a good idea then.

i spose brissy compliance would be the best...boats get there first, so its gonna get the ball rolling sooner.

especially considering alot of people have done it without any hassles.

cheers for that guys!

PS the link was taken down so no pics atm sorry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...