Rb Sumps- Custom, Off Shelf, Back Yard Jobs

[humz]

thanx for your pics and info guys, that last one is very intricate, looks awsome none the less.

keep posting up more pics coz im sure everyones who is in the process of a serious rebuild has thought about this atleast once and then ditched the idea due to a lack of info out there on sumps.

[shanef]

i'm using the std gtr sump with a 3 stage dry sump pump. 1 scavange in sump, 1 scavange from back of head, feed is from a modified rb25 pump (welsch plug removed, -16 fitting installed, and gear removed) should be able to do it all for under $1500

i'll see how it goes when the cars finished.

[R31Nismoid]

Dave you have any form of aftermarket sump baffles fitted???

We run tomei baffles in all of out RB26's and never have any problem with surging. Ive got guage in my GTR and after 100's of wakfield laps, oran park and eastern creek laps Ive not once seen a fluctuation in oil pressure.

I usualy over fill by a litre anyways but only because the thing still leaks out the crank seal when it gets really hot.

Most of the Vic Circuit GTR's dont even use baffles at all, stock sump and away you go.

Just the stock item, one litre over filled as you do.

Obviously these are on built motors that have all the oil control mods taken care of. Thats the key. The sump/baffles/etc is but a band aid for a bigger problem

[DCIEVE]

Most of the Vic Circuit GTR's dont even use baffles at all, stock sump and away you go.

Just the stock item, one litre over filled as you do.

Obviously these are on built motors that have all the oil control mods taken care of. Thats the key. The sump/baffles/etc is but a band aid for a bigger problem

Looking for a few peoples thoughts, I have a 26 in a 31 (bought car with motor fitted) -sump is definantly not a modded gtr, looks like a 20/25 sump. Obviously the std gtr sump is good enough for most people but what would be better from my point of view.. exchange mine for a high energy OR buy a gtr sump + modify + add tomei baffles. I think cost would work out roughly the same in the end.

At the moment it surges badly, with a full sump it will lose pressure when accelerating (but not when braking, cornering). Overfill by 1litre helps but not completely, will still flicker down before picking up pressure again.

Thanks.

[R31Nismoid]

Yours has the RB25 sump if my memory is correct

The GTR sump is thick walled aswell, hence why i went with that one.

Just had the diff removed, and that was it. RWD friendly

Also a H.E. sump came off a car i know of late.

Extremely poor effort... the owner of this car went back to a modded GTR sump in the end rather than stick with the H.E. one

[DCIEVE]

Yours has the RB25 sump if my memory is correct

The GTR sump is thick walled aswell, hence why i went with that one.

Just had the diff removed, and that was it. RWD friendly

Also a H.E. sump came off a car i know of late.

Extremely poor effort... the owner of this car went back to a modded GTR sump in the end rather than stick with the H.E. one

How straightforward was modding your gtr sump? And could they do another identical to yours...

[Craved]

Funny someone should mention this as im in the process of fabricating an ally dry sump pan at the moment. Different to a normal gated sump with extra capacity, just a very shallow pan with a few valleys for the two pickups for the pump. When i get closer to finishing it ill get a few shots of it and pop em up. At the moment ive only got the flange cut out, and other peoples paying jobs come first unfortunately. If only there were more hours in the day

did you cut the flange yourself or get it laser cut or something?

any ideas on the cost of the flange? im pretty keen on this setup and having 2 rb30 and 1 rb25 on stands at home it will be a nice challenging project for myself.

In regards to Windage trays, are the Louvered style like the stock ones sufficient or would a stainless mesh type similar to aftermarket chevy v8 style windage tray be better?

[R31Nismoid]

How straightforward was modding your gtr sump? And could they do another identical to yours...

Ye, Racepace did it for me.

First go it didnt fit, but that was no drama, just took it off and lopped a bit more meat off, it was only hitting a small section of the crossmember.

I wouldnt imagine it to be really hard if you get a semi-decent fabricator

[T04GTR]

Louverd ones are far better. mesh doesnt trap the slung oil as well.

[r33_racer]

yeh i traced out the standard sump onto an ally sheet and marked it all out and cut it out manually by hand (guillo, jigsaw and linisher)...once i get a cad drawing of it done ill be able to get them laser cut. If it all works out easytown i might look at making a high energy equivalent with some trap doors and whatnot out of ally. It would suit rb20, 25 and 30.

With the scraper...id imagine the mesh would catch it good, but it would retain it for quite a while until it built up enough to drip down. Ive seen a few nice ally crank scrapers made up with bend up fins and holes all through them.

[Craved]

what thickness alloy did you use for the flange?

any ideas on alloys ability to withstand the vibrations and weight off the sump when it is say 2.5mm thick?

[shanef]

what do you mean by flange? are you using it as an 'adapter plate' type of arrangement?

[Craved]

what do you mean by flange? are you using it as an 'adapter plate' type of arrangement?

basically the flange point where the sump's surface meets the block ..

basically need to run a flange to bolt up to the block, then weld onto that the sides of the sump etc.

[r33_racer]

Chris i used 4mm thick T6 xxxx series....its extremely rigid and not very good for cold working....but its just my flange...and i was going to use 3mm sheet with a much softer temper so i can fold up the basic shape and then tig that to the flange. Once i cut the guts out of it and drill all the holes in this one ill take some photos and show you. From memory i used a sheet 250 X 700 X 4mm that was pretty close to the std sump dimensions...a little guillotining and linishing brought it upto shape.

[Craved]

Chris i used 4mm thick T6 xxxx series....its extremely rigid and not very good for cold working....but its just my flange...and i was going to use 3mm sheet with a much softer temper so i can fold up the basic shape and then tig that to the flange. Once i cut the guts out of it and drill all the holes in this one ill take some photos and show you. From memory i used a sheet 250 X 700 X 4mm that was pretty close to the std sump dimensions...a little guillotining and linishing brought it upto shape.

Michael

my sister works with CAD for house design, i might take a trace design from one of my spare sumps and see if she can create a CAD template of it, as i dont have a Guillotien at home the job of cutting some 4mm thick alloy doesnt look too promising for me. ($3 a cut at the local Capral though)

a mate of mine used to work next door to a water cutting place, might get some prices on getting them cut out. - once we have the CAD design that is.

Can you explain the "cold working" you mentioned? how does this material go with the more std alloy material in terms of weldability etc.

[T04GTR]

$3 a cut? thats cheap. at edcon its $7 a cut lol

[r33_racer]

a materials cold workability is how well is acts and reacts to forming, shaping and bending without heat. For example if i were to try and do a 90 degree bend in the 4mm plate it will probably only bend to say 20 degrees and then start to crack and if i keep going all the way to 90 it will just crack in half.....its too hard or brittle if you think of it that way i spose. Weldability of it should be pretty good from what i remember about it last time i used it.

Find a site with information on aluminium and it will describe all the different traits of the different groups of ally. So you know what you want and need inorder to work with it successfully. Should give info on temper, workability, weldability, machineability, physical traits like melting point and blah blah blah.

Yep once i get a working flange up and done (should be soon )going to get mate at work to do a cad drawing of it with all the hole centres and what not so i get them made via waterjet cutting or laser cutting...whatever is cheaper i guess. We get a fair bit of laser cutting down for work...so i could probably tack it onto our account and put it through that..so it might work out relatively affordable.

Edited May 15, 2007 by r33_racer

[shanef]

just for a headsup to laser cutting, i supplied the CAD dwg for the 4wd adapter plate, and to supply & cut the 10mm mild steel it cost me $210

[r33_racer]

Finally got the flange finished off...jig n sawed out...its a little rough, but will do for the first proto. The 4mm worked out almost perfect...didnt flex or want to bend...it just stayed rigid and flat the entire time i was cutting it out. All the holes came out spot on too....phew

Edited May 16, 2007 by r33_racer

[R31Nismoid]

Ill be able to get some detailed pics of my sump i think.

Motor is being dropped one more time before starting.

So if i can get RWD 26 sump pics i will