Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you guys talking about the filter for the stock air box? Cos thats what Im after. I have currently the apexi one but its old and abused lol

I dont want to fit a pod (K&N) without CAI and a sealed box... so I much rather get a good panel filter... a boxed panel filter does a much better job than an exposed pod.

I saw on nengun they sell em for 36 bucks with further 36 bucks delivery fee... I want to buy in Melbourne something like that for 40 bucks where I pick it up or something.

lol. no one was talking about about a pod.

A good panel filter cannot be had for $40, Nengun have stupid pricing, they exclude all their charges, shipping and tax costs after you get it here it will have cost you around the 100 dollar mark. Retail, K&N filter sell for around $130 and with friends in the right places the best you can get them for is $85.

lol. no one was talking about about a pod.

A good panel filter cannot be had for $40, Nengun have stupid pricing, they exclude all their charges, shipping and tax costs after you get it here it will have cost you around the 100 dollar mark. Retail, K&N filter sell for around $130 and with friends in the right places the best you can get them for is $85.

my mate bought his for his evo 7. retail was about 90 or so, i think they were tyring to clear em out

that's right guys... go K&N panel filter. use the standard airbox, just put in the filter - runs really well, i gained like 3-5 kilwatts because of it. i had a blitz pod filter, stucked heaps of engine heat, was bad and yes, pods filters are illegal but panels ones are not.

be careful as in vic you can only have 1 air induction-related mod, if you got a frontmounted intercooler, but forget about the CAI.

price for a k&n filter will cost you anything from $75-$125.00 - watch out of replicas

Edited by Spunky Munky

im gonna buck the trend and say get another apexi panel. they have better flow and filtration and an added bonus is that you dont have to oil them. oil is illegal in vic and can also f**k around with your afm.

as to buying an apexi locally i wouldn't have a clue. i do know that repco, autobarn and supercheap didnt stock them when i was looking (few months back). try kudos motorsports in the trader section. top bloke and you wont be dissapointed

My point was that a stock paper filter element from nissan like the one your car would have got from the factory will not be a restrcition in anyway for your current power output.

it will clean better than all the aftermarket ones too.

by buying a trust/apexi/k&n etc.. you will not make any more power over the factory paper one which will cost you piss all.

My point was that a stock paper filter element from nissan like the one your car would have got from the factory will not be a restrcition in anyway for your current power output.

it will clean better than all the aftermarket ones too.

by buying a trust/apexi/k&n etc.. you will not make any more power over the factory paper one which will cost you piss all.

Pardon the ignorance, where can you get the cheapo Nissan genuine paper air filter? (please dont say Nissan dealer lol)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...