Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

alright...so i go to get a wheel alignment, and after spending 2 minutes telling the apprentice how to start the car so he can drive up onto the car lift, they get started...and then tell me they have no data for stagea and can't do it..they will order the floppy disks (old machine i guess) and have data in a week... but NISSAN refused to help me (obviously..they dont have FAST JP and they don't give a rats arse) and i couldn't find SK's number. I told them that "front track width should be same as GTR33 as i think the front swaybar fits, but otherwise i have little idea (and in retrospect...i believe i am wrong in even that little detail...because didn't Grant try and the gtr33 sway ddn't fit...right?)"

SO...

Gary, Grant...and anyone else who has a clue... WHAT IS THE DATA TO GET A WHEEL ALIGNMENT???

Castor? Camber? etc etc... (i don't knwowhat they need to know.)

suspension is as stock as a ducks guts...

can't wait to get new gear from group buy after tax time :wave:... hehehehehe

bloody TSV wheel alignment boys :D:laugh:

CHeers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/
Share on other sites

link edited as Im a fool

some info

fyi: Ive had gary's group buy on my car for over a year now, including R34 mags and new tyres fitted 14months ago. havent had a wheel alignment and tyres are wearing perfectly.

got to fit the front adj bushes and align it all tho.............. now the bike is sold got some cash to get it done.

want to grab a shift kit too =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3111109
Share on other sites

fwiw

for touge my alignment is

Front

-1.5* camber

.5* toe in

stock caster

rear

.5* toe in

-.75* camber

thats all i had adjusted

i need to buy traction rods for the rear and tension for the front so i can finish my suspension

but these numbers are only an initial alignemnt to what i had on my 180.

i need to get it on the track and find out what i need to tweek...im sure the rear toe is gonna wanna go a tad in for a better initiation for my drifts....but it hinders my high speed stability..so we shall see.

BTW GTR33 front fits

S14 rear fits

sway bar wise

buttt since sydneykid hasnt spoken yet, and im sure he will contradict everything ive told you so far

If you want an alignment that is in the middle of comfort and performance oriented

GO stock camber all around.

in the front tell them to tow it in a half a degree. you will get a more responsive turn in on your turns.

but that is ONLY my experience, and is by no way a go by rule.

i tend to like it more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3111333
Share on other sites

fwiw

for touge my alignment is

Front

-1.5* camber

.5* toe in

stock caster

rear

.5* toe in

-.75* camber

thats all i had adjusted

i need to buy traction rods for the rear and tension for the front so i can finish my suspension

but these numbers are only an initial alignemnt to what i had on my 180.

i need to get it on the track and find out what i need to tweek...im sure the rear toe is gonna wanna go a tad in for a better initiation for my drifts....but it hinders my high speed stability..so we shall see.

BTW GTR33 front fits

S14 rear fits

sway bar wise

buttt since sydneykid hasnt spoken yet, and im sure he will contradict everything ive told you so far

If you want an alignment that is in the middle of comfort and performance oriented

GO stock camber all around.

in the front tell them to tow it in a half a degree. you will get a more responsive turn in on your turns.

but that is ONLY my experience, and is by no way a go by rule.

i tend to like it more.

righto....read all the sugested threads...great guys and thanks again for saving an idiot :domokun:

from what i have read-stock camber can be pretty disgusting..as i am getting some wear on the inside of the tire - and other wheel alignmnet readouts have readings around 2degrees40 - i have been suggested to that i should aim for 1 degree.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3111415
Share on other sites

Our Wheel Alignment machine at work has data for all Stagea's. It lists a suggested Min an Max for each adjustment. Eg - Camber may be Min - 0 an Max maybe -2 . Does anyone want me to get any thing imparticular? Its got 4 an 2 wheel drives and also has the 260.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3111629
Share on other sites

depends

whatcha wanna do with your car?

do you have any adjustable links?

once i get all my links, all my settings will be just out of factory adjustable range.

i picked up some Cusco tension rods this evening....rear traction rods are all it takes and im done!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3111706
Share on other sites

righto....read all the sugested threads...great guys and thanks again for saving an idiot :D

from what i have read-stock camber can be pretty disgusting..as i am getting some wear on the inside of the tire - and other wheel alignmnet readouts have readings around 2degrees40 - i have been suggested to that i should aim for 1 degree.

camber doesn't wear tires

Toe does

I ran -3* camber on my 180 with -.25* toe and had no abnormal tire wear.

they wont last 40,000 miles, but they last 6-7 months.....which by they they are burned off anyways....but thats just me...again lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3111708
Share on other sites

SK says its in the group buy thread. If you cant find it I have the figures.

I've just had a f**king horendous time getting a tie rod end. By the time I add up time effort and money it must have cost me near a grand. Absolutely NO bullshit.

Anyway today the Stag is all back to kosha. I aged so much I' thinking of changeing my name to, at least 72yo.LOL

IncidentlyI have a spare tie rod end now so if anyone is stuck, give me a buzz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3111738
Share on other sites

thanks guys... i just really eeded some target figures for a wheel alignment place here in Townsville... It was a quick check cause i popped a tyre bead and went off the road on Thursday night and wantwed an alignment quick smart...but it's driving straight..there isn't any visual damage to rim/tyre or arms... it all seems ok.. getting it done on wednesday now.. but at least i have some target figures now. Thank you very much :)

Will have SK's kit as soon as i get my tax back :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3114948
Share on other sites

Stageas, standard, have toe adjustment front and rear and small camber adjustment on the rear only. So that's all they can adjust, giving you front caster and camber figures that they can't achieve is a waste of time.

I assume it's an RS4, so 4wd alignment figures are the go.

Front toe, out 1 mm each side, we never measure toe in degrees in Australia, it's always mm (or inches for the old guys).

Rear camber, the standard adjusters are good for 0.25 degrees. So the best you can usually achieve is to get them somewhat the same. The less negative camber the better.

Rear toe, I find that RS4's (with standard suspension) understeer pretty much all the time. So I run a little toe out, around 2 mm a side, which helps with the turn in.

When you get some adjustment facilities for the front caster and camber and more adjustment range in the rear camber, the Group Buy recommended settings will be possible.

:D cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3117343
Share on other sites

'spirited' drive up a mountain - musn't have had enough pressure in the leading outside tyre - body roll - 1700kgs onto passenger front tyre whilst coming off braking (so weight was already on the front wheels) - and *pop* - chris does the 'HOLY CRAP............................."

least to say, I shall avoid the 'spirited driving' till i have SK's kit, a wheel alignment and checking my tire pressure next time

like i said...no real damage aprat from ahving to popthe tyre back on down the servo with 40+psi and some paint cracking on the front spoiler under flex...

my sidewalls on the 16's are competing with fairy floss in a plasticity competition - espescially under body roll......*yuk*

Sydney Kid... I lurves you....

Edited by captinsane
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3117579
Share on other sites

'spirited' drive up a mountain - musn't have had enough pressure in the leading outside tyre - body roll - 1700kgs onto passenger front tyre whilst coming off braking (so weight was already on the front wheels) - and *pop* - chris does the 'HOLY CRAP............................."

least to say, I shall avoid the 'spirited driving' till i have SK's kit, a wheel alignment and checking my tire pressure next time

like i said...no real damage aprat from ahving to popthe tyre back on down the servo with 40+psi and some paint cracking on the front spoiler under flex...

my sidewalls on the 16's are competing with fairy floss in a plasticity competition - espescially under body roll......*yuk*

Sydney Kid... I lurves you....

lol, are your wheels ok?!!

Im glad everything turned out ok though, im sure that was a scary episode. lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3117597
Share on other sites

wheels are fine remarkably... a little more scrubbing but there was a ton on there when i first got them from a previous owner so i am not all that worried... Hasn't lost any tyre pressure over the last 2 days and no visible damage otherwise :D

Wheover had it before me even was complacent enough to let the tyre balancing guy put weights on the outside of the mags :P *yuk*

I expected to get out of the car and see power steering arms broken, tie rods gone and wheels poking away from the body at 90 degrees to each other... I was well overjoyed to see them pointing in the same direction and the inside of the wheel still on the rims... >_<

Edited by captinsane
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168258-wheel-alignment/#findComment-3118424
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...