Jump to content
SAU Community

Getting A Gearbox Back In An R32. Got It Out How Does It Go Back In!

CEF11E
 Share

Recommended Posts

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

Hey all.

I have just taken out my gearbox and am putting a new one in and am having dificuilty getting it back on.

I have the car on reamps on the front wheels and the back wheels still on the ground. I am using a trolley jack and balancing it on the lug on the bottom of the box and it seems to be pretty clost to balance there.

to get the box out we pulled it back about 4~5cm and rotated it so the starter bulge was closer to the ground so it would not foul on the transmission tunnel.

but can not seem to get it back in. last time i replaced a box myself was almost 10 years ago in an old celica and we loostned the engine mounts and tilted the engine backwards.

can someone that has done it or does it for a living give me some advice on teh best way to get it back on. I have got the spline to sit just in but couldn't get it on. i wiggled and jiggled and still no go :stupid:

any help would be greatly appreciated :laugh: Thanks!

Duke_R32 Apprentice

Duke_R32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Try jack up the back of the car, when i did mine by myself i had the car at an even hieght on 4 car stands and used a jack to balance the gearbox.

from memory it was a bit fiddly to get back on but keep wriggling side to side and it should pop back on.

also make sure the lugs go on properly (it might be fowling on the bell housing)and it would be good now to apply an anti-sieze to the lugs just incase you have to remove the gearbox again.

Edited by Duke_R32
dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

lock the gearbox in 1st gear, to stop the spline from mooving, are you sure the clutch is linned up? and make sure the plate slide over ur input shaft *i.e correct clutch instaled* other then that you could jack the front of the motor up causing the rear of the motor to lower and make it kinda easier, other then that just try get 1 bolt lined up and slowly tighten it, the get another one in and do the same, be very carefull not to overtighten one side or you run the risk of crakin the bell housin.. best of luck.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Pretty much as dead32 has stated.

You dont need to rotate the box, you dont need to get the back of the car in the air but it does help to jack the front of the engine up to give yourself a bit more clearance. I generally leave the box in neutral, but have done it in first as well, it makes no difference.

The easiest way to get it in is to get the box up and the splines into the clutch plate and then use the jack to get the thing as square to the back of the engine as possible. Make sure the jack is in line with the car so the box can roll forward easily. Give it a bit of a shake with a bit of forward pressure and it should just pop in. I've only ever used bolts to line it up to give the box something else to slide on and some support at the front, not tighten it on.

If you've had the clutch out then obviously check that it's aligned correctly first.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I've always rotated the box so that the starter lump clears the floorpan, line it up and it pops in. The motor has never tilted back far enough for it to clear.

I find a jack underneath the rear of the gearbox tied up with rope to prevent it falling off and another under the front of the gearbox to help lift the box. Obviously depends if you have a mate helping or not. :nyaanyaa:

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

yeah. remove the x member. so you can rotate it about 30 degrees. it will go in. the straighten it up and give it a wiggle and it should slide in. (if youve aligned the clutch propperly.)

to make it easier get someone to lever the engine down by the dump pipe.

dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

wow tripple post dave, nice work LOL :nyaanyaa:... p.s a lil bit if greese on the splines and the end of the input shaft so it slides in the spiggot easier never hurt, also a lil on the dowles of the box... goodluck, if u need help im free but need to be picked up LOL. lost mi license

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

GEarbox in :( happy not :)

OK so i got the box back in with relative ease... and it all bolts up nicely.

THE DAMN THING IS STUCK IN REVERSE!!!!!!

here is exactly what it is doing

when the car is in Neutral with the clutch in it is stationery

when the car is in neutral with the clutch out the car reverses ( so it seems to be stuck on reverse )

you can select 1st and 2nd but if you are rolling forward with the clutch in as soon as you let it out you are stationrey as the car seems to be in reverse and 1st at the same time.

The box was rebuilt supposedly and has new gasket material between all the parts and came with warranty from the supplier. When i bought the box i asked for an RB20DET box from an R32gtst however the box seems to be from an RB20det powered R31. not sure if this matters.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

oh thats awsome!!!!!!!!! dmn. ok. you need to pull the kunt thing out again and seperate the rear housing. the selectors are in there. followd by a stern phonecall with a please explain to the seller.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

there te same box. theyve mucked up the selectors when they have put the rear housing on. easy to do. its a little fidly getting it on without acidentaly selecting a gear.

the problem is its gotta be pulled apart to be fixed. takes 2 seconds but f**k..

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hehe get this :)

I got really lucky and this will be gold information for anyone that ever has this problem...

If you take the reverse switch out of the box the reverse selector fork will be right there in the little hole and it will be facing the front of the car towords the bell housing. if you get a small sharp object like a stubby screwdriver and put it in the hole untill it stops. this will be the selector fork. push it backwards towards the rear of the car with a levering action. the fork will push bact to its original position and this will put the car back in neutral.

you will need a really short screwdriver to get between the gearbox and the transmission tunnel but it works!!!! then just put the reverse switch in and happy days!

it saved me a whole lot of trouble and the 6 hours it would have taken to get the box out and back in again...

Thanks all very much for your help.

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cool a shower and 2 beers later and i feel a whole lot better.

I had a couple of other minor bits...

1. the dumb ass the did up the tail shaft bolts last time did them so tight they stripped the nuts so i had to get under the car with an angle grinder to get them off. so for now i an using non Nissan hardware store bolts (no boost fro me for the week) i will be getting new ones and put them in next weekend.

so seeming as i have to undo the tail shaft next weekend I might aswell take the diff out and put in the shiny new Nismo SSS mechanical 2-way I have sitting here :)

2 questions...

1. what size it the diff pinion gear bolt under the tailshaft ? because i may have to adjust the backlash after putting the new center in.

2. what sort of oil is best used with a nismo 2 way... i can't get nismo oil in canberra. :( will any limslip diff oil do the job?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The Bogan
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...