Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the same problem. The guy who had the car before me put on a huge SARD dumpvalve and removed the re-circ system. Due to the dumpvalve being rusty etc the car now wants to stall when i come to a standstill and have to give it a small blip on the throttle to sort it.

No dumpvalve wont do your turbos any favours.

Gez

u made the same mistake i did, everytime i lift off the throttle the RPMs would drop so low that it would stall everytime i clutch in.

this is caused by a blocked BOV or no BOV at all. plump it back or let it vent properly and ur probz are solved

the car was tuned when i had a bov, i like the extra throttle repsonse i get from having no bov so i'm getting a tune soon and hopefully that will fix it, garret also proved that bov's do very little to prolong the life of a turbo.

the car was tuned when i had a bov, i like the extra throttle repsonse i get from having no bov so i'm getting a tune soon and hopefully that will fix it, garret also proved that bov's do very little to prolong the life of a turbo.

Dont understand how you get extra throttle response.......Do you know what bov suppose to do.

u made the same mistake i did, everytime i lift off the throttle the RPMs would drop so low that it would stall everytime i clutch in.

this is caused by a blocked BOV or no BOV at all. plump it back or let it vent properly and ur probz are solved

Lol whatever, i have a BOV venting to atmo that is working 100% and i have the same problem. Though it happens very rarely. FWIW it never happened before i fitted the BOV.

Cars that use an AFM need a properly recirculating blow off valve to run properly, there are heaps of tricks to get around this, but they are all bandaids. There is no dowmside to doing it the way the factory does it, except you lose the "wank" factor.

Lol whatever, i have a BOV venting to atmo that is working 100% and i have the same problem. Though it happens very rarely. FWIW it never happened before i fitted the BOV.

Driving style is but one of the tricks that can counteract it :P

Cars that use an AFM need a properly recirculating blow off valve to run properly, there are heaps of tricks to get around this, but they are all bandaids. There is no dowmside to doing it the way the factory does it, except you lose the "wank" factor.

As above with the tricks :sleep:

Ways around it, but best to go with the OEM equipment (or GTR items if you need to)

I would say get the car tuned with no BOV or put one on there for now until you get it retuned, and to be frank you will find with a Plumb back you will find the turbo will spool quicker because it doesnt have to argue with air comming back at it, try it see how well you speak with air being rammed down your Throat. It works trust me :sleep:

Is say theres a lot of "thinking" in this thread. Ash, get the car tuned and ignore most of the advice here....

Cars that use an AFM need a properly recirculating blow off valve to run properly

Ever seen the 180's that Nissan never fitted bov's to...or did they just make thousands of factory defects? :dry:

Is say theres a lot of "thinking" in this thread. Ash, get the car tuned and ignore most of the advice here....

Ever seen the 180's that Nissan never fitted bov's to...or did they just make thousands of factory defects? :domokun:

it does need a tune, i've been meaning to get one for a while but i don't want to get one until i get my cams and valve springs installed.

Also to the guys who are bagging the idea of not having one on there just try it and then tell me if you don't notice the difference, also as i mentioned earlier they do not prolong turbo life as proved by garrett.

it does need a tune, i've been meaning to get one for a while but i don't want to get one until i get my cams and valve springs installed.

Also to the guys who are bagging the idea of not having one on there just try it and then tell me if you don't notice the difference, also as i mentioned earlier they do not prolong turbo life as proved by garrett.

Quote Garrett

'The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo鈥檚 compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.'

I've had this problem since I've had my car, I've just always blipped the throttle before it stalled.

For what it's worth, these are the things I have replaced for other reasons - Not to solve this issue, however mabye it will cancel some things out;

R32GTST, Stock internalsm stock BOV

Fuel Pump (Bosch 044)

AFM (standard R32 Green label)

RB25 Turbo

Splitfire Coil Packs

Cleaned Air Regulator

Spark Plugs

Fuel Filter

Maybe my BOV is blocked, I'll clean all that out tonight when I am chasing my boost leak

Dont understand how you get extra throttle response.......Do you know what bov suppose to do.

I do. :)

A bov is there for emissions and drivability. It hurts response as the turbo must refill the fmic and its pipework.

You obviously haven't tried no bov?

IF what garrett state *causes thrust bearing failure* a mate of mines VLT wouldn't have cracked 200,000km's on its STOCK JOURNAL bearing turbo while pushing 12-13psi for many years prior.

Have a read of - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1457/article.html

Simon from Nizpro is well respected within the industry.

---------

Ash,

Your going to have to do what Sinista has done, lengthen the afm to turbo pipe. OR step the size up to a 4" 90degreeish bend. Only way your going to get around it. :banana:

Shaun also recommends no bov; get him to tune it out, he may also recommend the inlet pipe mod.

Also..... Does your AFM still run its mesh? This helps prevent stalls also *in my experience*.

I do. :thumbsup:

A bov is there for emissions and drivability. It hurts response as the turbo must refill the fmic and its pipework.

You obviously haven't tried no bov?

IF what garrett state *causes thrust bearing failure* a mate of mines VLT wouldn't have cracked 200,000km's on its STOCK JOURNAL bearing turbo while pushing 12-13psi for many years prior.

Have a read of - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1457/article.html

Simon from Nizpro is well respected within the industry.

---------

Ash,

Your going to have to do what Sinista has done, lengthen the afm to turbo pipe. OR step the size up to a 4" 90degreeish bend. Only way your going to get around it. ;)

Shaun also recommends no bov; get him to tune it out, he may also recommend the inlet pipe mod.

Also..... Does your AFM still run its mesh? This helps prevent stalls also *in my experience*.

hopefully shaun can tune it out as i can't really lengthen my pipe if i wanna keep the standard airbox. The afm is missing mesh on one side (was like this when i bought it)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
  • Create New...