Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, sorry i know this isnt an import but i forgot my login details for the r31 forum.

OK, my mums car runs good when its cold but then once it warms up, runs like complete shit. It has sudden bursts of power and sitting and the lights for to long makes it stall.

I reset the ecu and (took battery off for around 3 hours) then connected it back up and the car ran fine and then started running like shit again. Now i dont know if its because the car cooled down a little or i reset the ecu.

Plugs arent to old and has had a new afm. Also, it seems to be running really rich ( smells of fuel) but doesnt blow smoke. Anyone have any ideas as to what it could be before i start buying stuff ?

Edited by Gameboy

to reset the ECU properly, disconnect the ground and pump the brakes a few times... that will drain any power that is in the lines...

as for the rest of it, check your intake, if its sucking in a lot of hot air, it wont really like that much...

hope someone can help more :)

smell of fuel seems to suggest that either there is a fuel leak somewhere, or there is a massive over fueling issue

check the injector hoses, the fuel pressure regulator near the fuel rail for leakage, the fuel filter etc anything that is related to fuel

smell of fuel seems to suggest that either there is a fuel leak somewhere, or there is a massive over fueling issue

check the injector hoses, the fuel pressure regulator near the fuel rail for leakage, the fuel filter etc anything that is related to fuel

Possibly leaky injector? hows economy?

dirty afm/vacuum leak could cause the car to stall etc, but the smell of fuel would be from a leaking injector, or fuel lines somewhere (is it coming from the rear or front of the car? could be a leak from the tank lines) If its through the exhaust, could even be an ignition issue if its not blowing smoke

Check the cold start air regulator, make sure it works properly. I had a similar problem, except my car was running very rich. Changed the afm, plug and removed the throttle body and cleaned it out. It takes a few seconds to start but is good on the fuel now. I had a strong fuel smell happening aswell but thats because it was running so rich.

I took it into Ultra Tune ( dont flame me ) because my mum wanted to and they said that they replaced the end of a spark lead and charged us $90. Took it home and next day it was worse. Took it back and they pretty much said that they dont know what is wrong with it.

The car is very random. My mum whent to overtake a car and when she booted it, it started breaking down and almost got into an accident. I have another R31 here (wreck) so im going to swap over some stuff and hopefully find out whats the cause of this problem. Ill will also try the things mentioned :thumbsup:

I had the exact same problem. I took it to a few mechanics and they had absolutly no idea. It ended up being that my exhaust cam was stuffed. Mechanic said it was warped. If it is that, get it fixed asap cos it will start to cause a whole lot of things to go wrong. Before you know it, you will have to rebuild the top end. Good luck dude!

check the ignition lead from the coil to the distributer

we had that in our old r31, cause of the heat etc it had been 'destroyed' on teh inside of the lead and there was no conduction to the distributer, so it would run like shit (it was just touching, and would go alright some times, but other times not)

  • 1 month later...

Just thought i would update this thread and tell you what has happened. It was the AFM all this time. Me and my bro done EVERYTHING mentioned in this thread even more!. I never suspected the AFM because it was a reco unit from UltraTune and when we took it in, they never said anything about it they just said they cant find what the problem with the car is.

Anyways, the car has been going perfect for a few weeks now and has even eliminated this really small hesitation that used to bug the hell out of me. It was like when even you will push the accelorator down from idle, it would kind of cut out for a SPLIT second but that problem was fixed by replacing the fuel preasure reg. Its so odd because we have had this car for around 8 years and has ALWAYS had that hesitation problem and now i have to get used to it not having the problem :thumbsup:

So yeah, if you are having a strange hesitating problem, chack your fuel preasure reg :ninja:

Thanks for all the help :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
    • What Duncan said sounds right. Also, it looks like they only have the driver's mat. Not the rest. Because looking at the diagram: KG4911 is just the mat for the driver. KG4900 is the full set if I'm not mistaken and discontinued.   But, it looks like they may still have the full set for the manual S2. Might be worth checking for the other models as well as they seem slightly different. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/misc/G49 Man, I'm tempted.
    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
×
×
  • Create New...