Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HKS 3037S 56T, getting custom manifold, dump etc made up and getting it all ceramic coated - inlcuding the turbine housing. Just waiting to get it fitted - starting to itch..... I also have cams on order from Japan (being made) head gasket, exh cam gear, injectors, pump etc. The waiting is killing me!!!!

Anything in particular? The 550cc injectors there are very expensive for what they are, low impedance top feed and second hand - they are charging about the same price as side feed high impedance new from japan. Their lightened flywheels seem like a good buy at $295, but they weigh 6kg - second hand from Jap, I have seen 4.5kg flywheels for less.

Bottom line, sometimes places sell some stuff really cheap, other stuff not so cheap. I wouldnt say they are no good - just depends on what you are after.

to be honest is lag really shit to have on the street.

Whats 500 rmp in the context of going for that extra power.

when boost does hit its gonna be a heap of

fun.http://www.rotorworx.com.au/perfor_turbo.html

heres a link i just found, with a few other turbos you might not have looked at.

seem reasonably priced too for what they are capable of.

i was speaking to another guy on the forums. also has an rb25det in a solvia. and he was running one of the series 5 turbos.

he used the stndard manifold but just got two of the exhaust studs relocated. it cost him $20 to get done.

The car ran 13.8 on 8 psi at 106mph so cant be doing to bad.

just another way instead of spending mega dollars.

the turbos go for around $200 and then you could get it rebuild and hiflowed for around $800.

wouldn'd be a bad idea for the price.

i think he said it spooled up at 4000 rpm.

Rob, HKS 2835, or a garrett gt30, just make sure you get one with a smallish turbine AR ratio:) Either of those should be fine. If you have a talk to the guys Per4manz, or SST - I'm sure they would be able to find the perfect turbo. Your aims for rwhp v's lag seem pretty realistic, depends on how much you want to spend at the end of the day.:rolleyes:

INASNT, Evan (PSI fabrication) is making it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...