Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i went to classic motor trimmers today

You came to my work? ahh i didnt see you, well to be honest i dont go in competition with my boss. Yeh i dont steal customers off him, im sure u understand where im coming from :)

In the future just give me a call first haha cheers mate

James

hey i went to classic motor trimmers today. some guy quoted me 2500. for the door inserts, front and back seats, the gear and hand break boot, floor carpet, and the repairs to the vynil. what can you do?? i wasnt after anything fancy just normal cloth and the inserts done in red.

thanks

Hey man sorry its taken me so long to reply i been flat out:(

okay i usually do the door inserts for about $60-$80 each. So theres about $250.

front and back seats work out to about $1300 atleast. Skylines are a bit of a mission to trim because the original covers are glued down 90% of the time. Ive done a few of them so i can do them for a decent price but most trimmers will probably quote pretty damn high. Depends really i guess. A trimmer told me today he recently quoted $1800 for front and back seats in a silvia. So yeh it really depends who you see and who can do what etc etc.

through an average trimmer you'll be looking at about $100+ to do the hand break and gear boot, i can do the pair for about $70, and yes ive knocked out LOTS of them haha.

Carpets ide say roughly $350. Give or take.

and repairs to the vynil...? yeh gota be more specific there haha

Thats how everything adds up, at the end of the day it depends whos trimming your car and what sort of a job you want done.

Enjoy:)

If you got an more questions or need any more info give me a call - 0422148875

James

Interior is next on the agenda for my R32 GTR

I am liking the interior theme in the 2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Superlegga (and latest Aston Martin DB9)

lambo_press_15.jpg

Love the all black stitched suede on the seats and carried thru to the dash, would it be possible to trim the R32 GTR dash / centre console in a similar fashion...?

skyryan lol wat awesome plates!

anyways, yeh man the look alike can defantly be done:)

with enuff time and money ANYTHING can be done haha, its all about ur budget really. when your ready let me know and we'll go through sum stuff, make up sum designs and pick sum colours etc.

Just let me know mate:P

James

if i supply material how much just to do door panel inserts :cool: ?? mmmm briiideee

also unsupplied how much to re cover the front and rear seats in a black cloth/microfibre ? something breathable

sorry, just seen post above about pricing :D

will be contacting u some time :D

Interior is next on the agenda for my R32 GTR

I am liking the interior theme in the 2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Superlegga (and latest Aston Martin DB9)

lambo_press_15.jpg

Love the all black stitched suede on the seats and carried thru to the dash, would it be possible to trim the R32 GTR dash / centre console in a similar fashion...?

not suede buddy, its Alcantara. not sure exactly what that is but its artificial leather, i think they use it cos its very light and the supperlegga (spelling ?) is all about weight reduction. its a very expensive high class material though

Can you do trick work like trim my centre console lid in black leather with red stitiching R34 gtr style?

Yeh mate like i said before i can do anything with material:) console lid with black leather and red stiching is as good as done, i can knock that one ova for you this saturday if your intrested. Let me know

hey mate i just wanna do my doors, hand break, and gear boots, and the repairs to the vynil and maybe just the rear seats. could ya give me a price, with and with out the rear seats.

Hey i duno what you mean by repairs to teh vynil? you'd have to send me a pic of show me on your car. rear seats i can do for you, depends on what sort of material etc. can range from about $350-600 on average. Same deal with the doors, around $60-$100 each depending on what material is chosen. I can do your gear boot and hand break boots for $40 each. If you can get a few boots together i can do them for $60 the pair.

  • 1 month later...

Hey just letting everyone know im gonna be at autosalon on sunday afternoon/evening if anyone wants to ask me any questions about their interior. Ive actually worked on a few cars there, ive done the baby blue bmw with the lambo doors and the guggi interior:D (very very big job) and i worked on a mazda eunos done in all pink:)

Okay hopefully see some of you on sunday

Thanks

James - 0422148875

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...