Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

head light height adjustment on a series 2? really ? if so thats one more gadget I can play with when the car finally gets here.

\

I'm guessing that yours is a late (post-August) 1998 model, so it's a series 2, right? In that case, the 3-stage switch is probably for your headlight height adjustment.

Not sure about the other things, maybe post some pictures and see what the consensus is?

yep 3 stagea switch is for the headlights up n down. next to mine i have a little flashing LED for my blackwidow immobilizer not sure what your switch is for, but just bout every series 2 ive seen has something different there so good luck....

They are xenon from standard but compliance workshops remove them during their process, and replace them with a dodgey gay wiring setup and lights that blow every 3 weeks, lucky i dont do much night time driving and my dads mate owns a workshop i just drop in a take some globes when i need them.

saw a set of the original xenon resistor units, wiring and globes start at a dollar on ebay and finish for over $850 so they ain't cheap.

Question for everyone else; are compliance shops allowed to take these in my opinion if youve bought the car you own everything in it and they can't take it. how do i go about footing them up the arse and taking them back? ill just have to go flog $850 worth of intercooler n bits from their workshop

They are xenon from standard but compliance workshops remove them during their process, and replace them with a dodgey gay wiring setup and lights that blow every 3 weeks, lucky i dont do much night time driving and my dads mate owns a workshop i just drop in a take some globes when i need them.

saw a set of the original xenon resistor units, wiring and globes start at a dollar on ebay and finish for over $850 so they ain't cheap.

Question for everyone else; are compliance shops allowed to take these in my opinion if youve bought the car you own everything in it and they can't take it. how do i go about footing them up the arse and taking them back? ill just have to go flog $850 worth of intercooler n bits from their workshop

yeh this was talked about recently, not sure what forum but the conclusion was everything that car came with is yours.....i believe your well within your rights to ask for them.......not sure if i'm correct tho

I was alerted by someone else on these forums stating they didnt get their xenon lights back, so I made sure I rang and asked about it. Before I even got 1/2 way thru the sentence he assured me they bag everything they change and ship it over with the car.

depending on how straightforward the swap over is I may or may not swap back to the xenon lights!

They are xenon from standard but compliance workshops remove them during their process, and replace them with a dodgey gay wiring setup and lights that blow every 3 weeks, lucky i dont do much night time driving and my dads mate owns a workshop i just drop in a take some globes when i need them.

hmm that doesn't sound right either - yes they will replace them with a halogen setup (like most other cars on the road except maybe new bmw's and lexus's?).

But i've had my headlights in for 12 months and only replaced them voluntarily to do a road trip interstate cos I thought my "original" ones weren't that bright. Turns out there was probably nothing wrong with them so there you go.

Definitely shouldn't need to replace them every 3 weeks (not sure if you were exaggerating but even twice a year is way too often!!).

While we're talking headlights, I did notice when I replaced mine that my right side headlight doesn't sit in properly. Normally the clip will hold it tight so it cant move - well thats how my left side one is, but the right side one can wobble about a mm or half a mm up and down. Not enough to make a difference and it definitely wont fall out or anything but I guess it does mean its a bit of a dodgy setup...

I wonder if the compliance workshops all use a similar setup or not??

I was alerted by someone else on these forums stating they didnt get their xenon lights back, so I made sure I rang and asked about it. Before I even got 1/2 way thru the sentence he assured me they bag everything they change and ship it over with the car.

depending on how straightforward the swap over is I may or may not swap back to the xenon lights!

if the compliance shop does the usual butcher job on the zennons you will never get them to work again as they hack out the wiring .pm me for more info nudge nudge wink wink say no more

it was bit of an over exageration ive replaced them 3 times in 12 months but that is too much in my books, ive done a bit bettter job insulating the plugs and crap they put on and havent blown since. The wiring for headlights looks hella dodgey in my car.

it was bit of an over exageration ive replaced them 3 times in 12 months but that is too much in my books, ive done a bit bettter job insulating the plugs and crap they put on and havent blown since. The wiring for headlights looks hella dodgey in my car.

So definitely no go with putting Xenons back on? I just don't see the logic behind taking them off for compliance... I thought Xenons ARE a good thing, especially if they are adjustable (glare).

dont know how the system works but does the headlight height adjustment work with non Xenon lights.

Tried adjusting mine with the the three way switch on the right of the steering column and it didnt do squat. Im gonna have to also check the wiring on the right headlight set up cause I noticed that it flicked off & on a few times. Bodgy brothers strikes again.

Dont want to hijack this forum but just wanted to say, sunday night had a early model Impreza wagon & late model Audi S4 try it on. Chewed up & spatt out. Ha...............no mods, just a sweet launch

Tried adjusting mine with the the three way switch on the right of the steering column and it didnt do squat. Im gonna have to also check the wiring on the right headlight set up cause I noticed that it flicked off & on a few times. Bodgy brothers strikes again.

Dont want to hijack this forum but just wanted to say, sunday night had a early model Impreza wagon & late model Audi S4 try it on. Chewed up & spatt out. Ha...............no mods, just a sweet launch

holy shitttt that volvo gets into it...........f+*#ck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...