Jump to content
SAU Community

Steering Pulling To The Left?

sam5709
 Share

Recommended Posts

sam5709 Grand Master

sam5709

Posted
Posted

about a month ago the car start pulling the the left slightly when youd let go of the steering wheel, about a week after that it got worse, last week i went and got a wheels alignment because they told me that it would fix the problem, go the car back and it helped a tiny bit but it still pulls to the left?

any one know what this could be a result of?

cheers

sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169445-steering-pulling-to-the-left/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Is the road perfectly level, or does it slope down to the left? If it slopes, then of course the car will steer down there - gravity being what it is.

If you can find a similar but 2 lane road, check what happens in the right hand lane.

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

Check that your tyre pressures are even too. Do you have caster adjustment? If you dont the wheel alignment wouldn't have done too much to help the pulling.

But yeah, the car will always pull towards the camber of the road.

Post up your wheel alignment specs if you can.

sam5709 Grand Master

sam5709

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol i dont know what the specs of the wheels alignment were, tyres all have same amount of tread and all have even psi in the, iv tried doing it in a double lane whilst on the right hand side and it still does it, will probably take it to another tyre and suspension place and get it fully checked out

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
I have the same problem.

on a straight road.

i release the steering wheel, the car will start drifting to the left.

I just did wheel alignment and balancing.

why?

If you release the steering wheel, it's following the camber of the road.

If you have to drive up the street with opposite lock on, then you have a problem.

a) A heavy right foot :)

b) suspension issues.

Mine pulls to the left and it's my HICAS. Did you get your wheel alignment done with the engine running?

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted (edited)

Having your engine running when you get a wheel alignment will make NO difference.

Do you guys have caster adjustment on your cars? The car will pull to the side with less caster, if they are even, it will pull towards the camber of the road. Uneven cambers have a similar effect.

And how trust worthy are the places doing your wheel alignments? Chances are, your run of the mill tyre shop will have no idea what they're doing.

Post up wheel alignment specs so we can see what's going on.

Edited by salad
Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
Mine pulls to the left and it's my HICAS.

i think mine is my hicas aswell.. for some reason when i go around a corner a little fast and the back slides out a little it tends to veer off to the left a little... but usually its ok.. could be paranoia aswell lol

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

Mine does it too even with the alignment perfect. I have all standard alignment bits, with toe set to 0 at the front and -2mm each side on the rear with hicas removed. Everything is even side to side.

Im sure its the car following the camber of the road, and i think the wider and stiffer tyres you have the more it will do it.

Although, if yours pulls to the left when driving on a road sloping to the right i would say something is wrong, thats pretty extreme!

I really doubt that hicas has anything to do with it in most cases, it only works at above 60ish km/h, below that it stays centered. If your rear toe is uneven or set way off what it should be then the hicas will just make the problem worse when cornering at high speed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...