Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an atmo venting BOV so i dont the need the pump back pipe

So i removed it.

I have done the folling please tell me if this is right or wrong.

1. removed black pump back pipe

2. bloked of holes the pump back pipe left in the rubber intake pipe between AFM and turbo

3. Put a Breather filter on the breather pipe as seen in the photo below.

Is there any thing else i need to so

cheers

648091737licw4.jpg

yeah that will work for you, probably a better idea to run a oil/air seperator (catch can) but there isnt anything damaging about that setup as long as there is no chance the plugs you put in the intake pipe will fall into the turbo.

i pretty much did the same dood, but i just cut off the bov return n left the blow-by hose connected upto intake.. when i can be bothered il get a catch can, im in the process of running plumb-back again so everythings gonna get re-done properly so for now its kinda just to get me by

also cant you get defected for havin a breather?? emissions crapola

Edited by 2gceffy
I have an atmo venting BOV so i dont the need the pump back pipe

So i removed it.

I have done the folling please tell me if this is right or wrong.

1. removed black pump back pipe

2. bloked of holes the pump back pipe left in the rubber intake pipe between AFM and turbo

3. Put a Breather filter on the breather pipe as seen in the photo below.

Is there any thing else i need to so

cheers

648091737licw4.jpg

I love that purple. I painted my coil cover with that. Supercheap export purple :teehee:

When I installed the last atmo bov, all I did was bung the return pipe, that's it.

yea all i have had for the last year was a bung in the return pipe now i want to get rid of the pipe to tidy up the engine bay.

I got the paint from repco its a really good colour and is almost the same as the HKS Purple i have also painted my strup brace hands the same colour.

I have an atmo venting BOV so i dont the need the pump back pipe

So i removed it.

I have done the folling please tell me if this is right or wrong.

1. removed black pump back pipe

2. bloked of holes the pump back pipe left in the rubber intake pipe between AFM and turbo

3. Put a Breather filter on the breather pipe as seen in the photo below.

Is there any thing else i need to so

cheers

648091737licw4.jpg

1. Easy if you took off the cross-pipe to paint the covers, same thing you just undo another additional bolt take off a couple clamps.

2. Just stick some sort of plug in there with a clamp around it, alternative weld up a metal plug with a lip to stop it going into the intake.

3. If you still have have the black hose that returns to the to the intake you can just put a monza oil breather on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...