Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Something else to keep in mind in regards to tyre sizes- last wk I swapped out the rears only on my GTR (255/40/17 at all 4 corners on 9" rims) to find tyre A that went on the rear with approx 7mm tread (s/h) was actually 3mm SMALLER CIRCUMFERENCE than tyre B on the front with approx 2mm of tread at identical pressures etc.

This was enough to trigger a light torque-split at all times which is an obvious prob for GTR's but regardless of what you drive, keep in mind that NOT ALL carcass sizes from different manufacturers will be identical, regardless of the markings.

Also in regards to speedo error, the only true way is to use a GPS unit. Every other gadget you use gets its speed signal from INSIDE the vehicle so whilst it may well read different to your dash, doesn't necessarily mean it in itself is accurate. Alternately maybe your local dyno is an option, but again you're at the mercy of the calibration....

Also in regards to speedo error, the only true way is to use a GPS unit.

I have a gps device in my car, it shows that the speedo at 120km/h or less is near on perfect, with correct tyre sizes it shows dead on the right speed and with the 245s which are 3.3% too big it shows about 3km/h too slow. (both when the tyres were brand new)

The speed reading from the powerfc on the other hand always displays a slightly slower than actual speed, seen this on friends cars as well.

I think that all the higher end bridgestones are overpriced, and if those prices you quoted are 'specials' then that proves my point :/

There are a few similar tyres that you can get for a fair bit less. Dig up motor magazine tyre test but off the top of my head but if i were looking at that type of tyre ring around for:

Dunlop sp-sport maxx

Falken fk-452

Falken rt-615 (higher performance worse treadwear)

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3

All of those tyres have similar performance to the S03 but cost less.

Tempe has the 615s in 225/45/17 for ~$275, and you can get the sport maxxs for a good price right now from a few places in 235/45.

I would think the S-03 is a better tyre than the sp sport maxx being the flagship tyre for Bridgestone in Australia? and the best tyre in Dunlop range is the SP9000?

Posted by: writeoff 18 May 2005, 05:17 PM

No-one has posted the results of WHEELS tyre test so ...

1st - Goodyear Eagle Revspec RS-02 (99.2%)

2nd - Michelin Pilot Preceda (98.9%)

3rd - Maxxis Victra MA-Z1 (98.7%)

4th - Bridgestone Potenza S-03 (98.6%)

5th - Toyo Proxes T1R (97.6%)

6th - Yokohama AVS Sport V-102A (96.9%)

7th - BF Goodrich G-Force Sport (95.9%)

8th - Dunlop Direzza DZ 101 (94.9%)

9th - Kumho Ecsta KU19 (94.3%)

The Goodyear RS-02 won the Dry stopping and Wet cornering.

The Maxxis MA-21 won Wet stopping.

The Bridgestone S-03 won Dry cornering and Dry slalom.

I rang Tyrepower (Brighton, SA) today and was quoted on 245/40/18s (R34 GTR)

Goodyear RS-02: $490

Michelin Pilot Preceda: $550

Toyo T1R: $475

In the same size I was also quoted:

Toyo TPG: $275

Toyo RA1 (Motorsport): $525 (although the guy said these retail at $625 but was able to get a good price because he wants customer feedback on them)

I would think the S-03 is a better tyre than the sp sport maxx being the flagship tyre for Bridgestone in Australia? and the best tyre in the Dunlop range is the SP9000?

The best street tyre that Dunlop sells in Australia is the sport maxx, it is a newer and better model than the sp9000. I assume you figured the sp9000 was better from reading the Dunlop aus web site.. its crap, misleading and incomplete like most Australian tyre manufacturer sites.

In that tyre test you posted, from memory the sp9000s were the control tyre, and were outperformed by most of the new tyres in the test.. in the following year's test the sport maxxs came 1st overall. (see attached pic)

The s03s are way overpriced, and the last tyre test i read rated the Bridgestone re050a as best tyre. I know the s03s have been around for ages and not sure if they improved them lately, i know the re050a is a newer design and i assume that is a better tyre. If you ring Bridgestone Australia they will probably be able to tell you for sure.

Versions of the re050a's are used on Ferrari Enzo, some AMG models and the new SS Commodore, if the S03 was still the best model im sure thats what would be on those cars instead :)

If you dead set on Bridgestones i would say at least consider for the re050s and dont get ripped off buying the S03s, so not worth it!

Although i think this may be rigged, have a look here :unsure:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresult...lay.jsp?type=MP

post-2685-1180013467_thumb.jpg

Versions of the re050a's are used on Ferrari Enzo, some AMG models and the new SS Commodore, if the S03 was still the best model im sure thats what would be on those cars instead ;)

If you dead set on Bridgestones i would say at least consider for the re050s and dont get ripped off buying the S03s, so not worth it!

Although i think this may be rigged, have a look here :thumbsup:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresult...lay.jsp?type=MP

I did actually enquire about RE050s. Some how the guy at Bob Jane reckons Bridgestone only makes run-flat versions of the RE050, specifically not available in 255/40/17. Maybe he was just trying sell me S-03s :closedeyes:

I noticed in the link you provided, there are variants of RE050s: RE050A and RE050A Pole Position. Whats the difference between re050 and re050A?

I take it the Pole Position version is not for sale in Australia? just like Potenza RE01R?

so could i confirm - on an r32 gtr, should i be going for 17x8 fronts and 17x9 rears, or should all fours be the same?

Obviously you want all fours be the same being an AWD car. Unless of course you want to make it rear wheel drive.

Yeah all 17x9 would be ideal, go 10inch width if you have monster power.

I think that all the higher end bridgestones are overpriced, and if those prices you quoted are 'specials' then that proves my point :closedeyes:

There are a few similar tyres that you can get for a fair bit less. Dig up motor magazine tyre test but off the top of my head but if i were looking at that type of tyre ring around for:

Dunlop sp-sport maxx

Falken fk-452

Falken rt-615 (higher performance worse treadwear)

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3

All of those tyres have similar performance to the S03 but cost less.

Tempe has the 615s in 225/45/17 for ~$275, and you can get the sport maxxs for a good price right now from a few places in 235/45.

I'm using the Falken FK452's atm and they're really a good tyre so far.

By the way, I'm running a 275/35R/18 on the rear ( 9.5" wide rim ) and they are actually a bit too narrow on the rims for my liking. Fronts are 245/40R/18 on 8.5" wide rims and are way too narrow for my liking ( I like tyres to be flush with the rim ).

so could i confirm - on an r32 gtr, should i be going for 17x8 fronts and 17x9 rears, or should all fours be the same?

As long as the diameter of the tyres are the same you can use different width rims front and rear. When you look for tyres you can make sure of the overall diameter by looking up the diameter as listed by the manufacturer on a specified width rim.

I did actually enquire about RE050s. Some how the guy at Bob Jane reckons Bridgestone only makes run-flat versions of the RE050, specifically not available in 255/40/17. Maybe he was just trying sell me S-03s :closedeyes:

I noticed in the link you provided, there are variants of RE050s: RE050A and RE050A Pole Position. Whats the difference between re050 and re050A?

I take it the Pole Position version is not for sale in Australia? just like Potenza RE01R?

Not sure about the PP version, im pretty sure you can get the PP version of the S03 locally. With the re050 and A versions, the A version is the one i would want, it is described as the more aggressive version that i read about in a recent tyre test, and is the one used OEM on a few fast cars.

you can fit 265's onto a 9" rim no problems. However it won't provide you with as much latteral grip as a 245 or 255 tyre as there will be a lot more flex in the tyre due to the way it fit's onto the rim.

Thanks for all your replys guys.

I need to go as wide as possible here, is 265 on a 9"rim really that bad with the flex and stuff? what if I use higher tyre pressure to make it more "stiff"?

The reason being my car will have over 250rwkw close to 300 when its finished, so i need as much rear grip as possible.

Does anyone know which other tyre company makes 265 width tyre for a 17inch rim?

The only one I could find is Dunlop sp sport maxx: 265/40ZR17 96ZR. any idea how much they are?

Thanks

Edited by BaysideBlue
so could i confirm - on an r32 gtr, should i be going for 17x8 fronts and 17x9 rears, or should all fours be the same?

Mate just stick with 17x9" rims & 255/40/17 tyres at all 4 corners & you truly won't go wrong :O

RE050A is an asymmetric tyre and has an inside and outside marked, can only be fitted on the rim one way.

RE050 is a symmetric directional tyre and can be fitted on the rim either way but should only roll one way.

FAT34, I've noticed that Falken tyres seem to be a bit skinnier than the norm, ages ago I had 235/40 and 265/35 on 18x8 and 18x9 and they were both a bit stretched. This was in the ZE-512 pattern though, keen to try the FK-452s soon.

Sounds like RE05A is the one to get. Has anyone compared it with S03 in the same size?

Is 265 on a 9"rim really that bad with flex and stuff? what if I use higher tyre pressure to make it more "stiff"?

Who else makes 265 width tyre in 17s?

The ones I have found so far are:

Dunlop SP Sport Maxx 265/40ZR17 96ZR

Toyo Proxes T1R 265/40ZR17 96Y

Edited by BaysideBlue
265 will be the biggest possible.. But i would stick to 255s..

Im pretty sure its 235s/45 front, and 255/40 rear

yeah thats right. i have 255/40s on the back... these are the next ones ill get: http://www.federaltyres.com.au/ss595

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...