Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

The front swaybar mounts on my Series 2 R33 are old and in need of replacement.

Can someone please confirm the diameter of the standard front swaybar? I measured 22mm.

Has anyone here replaced their OEM bracket/mounts & bushes with Whiteline ones?

If so, it would be great if you could give me the Whiteline part numbers.

Cheers. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169756-replacing-swaybarantiroll-bushes/
Share on other sites

Yeah man I have done the same. :happy:

I have browsed the Whiteline catalogue but can not find anything suitable. :)

There is not even a suitable universal mount & bush kit!

I have been researching Nolathane products as well but again no results.

You might want to try them for your R32 www.redranger.com.au

Is there anyone out there who can help with R33 Swaybar bush kits???

I just bought a complete adjustable rear link pin kit for my 33. Its a heavy duty number with ball joints top and bottom and screw adjustment. It was quite expensive at around 160 dollars through repco but it does work a treat. I am not sure if they do a similar setup for the front tho.

pedders have the bushes, if you pull your link bushes out and d shakel and take it to them with your d bush, they will able to help you.

where are you located. try pedders in mitcham ask for george, he know his stuff.

if pedders still dont help,god forbid, try centreline suspension in thomastown.

cheers,

zac.

Cheers Zac!

I didn't expect to have to really search for this kind of part- I thought they would be really common! :domokun:

Hopefully Pedders can come up with something tough enough so I don't have to replace then any time soon!

Thanks again for the advice mate :)

yeah i don't wanna pay for whole new links, just need the bushes. even though i probably should've upgraded the links when i did the swaybars.

i told pedders the diameters inside and out over the phone and they were f**kall help... might try going in then :thumbsup: thanks all

Guys,

I recently bot the F & R camber kits, castor kit, subframe alignments, and swap bars from SK's suspension Group Buy. Sounds "backwards" as everyone usually goes for springs and shocks (in the form of coilovers) first but I can tell you the handing impact on my car has been amazing. Give the group buy a look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...