Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Got Defected For Front Mount Intercooler

CleanaR33

By CleanaR33,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

CleanaR33 Rookie

CleanaR33

Posted
Posted

I know this has already been a topic for discussion but I need to know if there is anyone in south east QLD who can hook me up with an engineer who will mod plate my R33's front mount intercooler modification - the chassis rails are NOT cut but the front bumper reinforcement (Reo or crash bar) has been cut to accomodate the intercooler.

The officer did not notice the hole cut just under the window washer bottle for the piping - nor did he listen to my story about how I purchased the car 5 years ago with the front mount modifications (but no intercooler) already in place.

I know this is going to cost $ but I just need someone who can look over it and certify it.

...surely the front mount in place 'puts back' what ever crash/crumple zone was taken away with the reo mods?????

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted

depending on what dollars you have to spend you have a few options:

To do it properly you should really get a new bumper and change the intercooler set-up so you dont have to cut into the bar

but if you dont want to spend bulk coin and....

if it was me i would either try and find an engineer that will sign off on it or (and this is most likely what i would do)

go to a wrecker, offer them a carton of piss to borrow one of their stock front bars and install it. Its not hard to take the bumper off and i would take the intercooler out and out a straight piece of pipe in its place so you can still drive it. Sounds dodge but as long as you dont boot the crap out of the car it will be ok. Take it to the pits, get it passed and change everthing back after and then your done, until next time...

shnaped_second Mentor

shnaped_second

Posted
Posted
I know this has already been a topic for discussion but I need to know if there is anyone in south east QLD who can hook me up with an engineer who will mod plate my R33's front mount intercooler modification - the chassis rails are NOT cut but the front bumper reinforcement (Reo or crash bar) has been cut to accomodate the intercooler.

The officer did not notice the hole cut just under the window washer bottle for the piping - nor did he listen to my story about how I purchased the car 5 years ago with the front mount modifications (but no intercooler) already in place.

I know this is going to cost $ but I just need someone who can look over it and certify it.

...surely the front mount in place 'puts back' what ever crash/crumple zone was taken away with the reo mods?????

Off topic but do you live on Karbunya St behind Chamonix?

Keegs Grand Master

Keegs

Posted
Posted

reo cut = big trouble. An intercooler will do nothing compared to a reo and hence why it is completely illegal to remove/cut it. As others have said you'll have a hard time finding someone to mod plate it unless they are very dodgy!

R334door Experienced

R334door

Posted
Posted
reo cut = big trouble. An intercooler will do nothing compared to a reo and hence why it is completely illegal to remove/cut it. As others have said you'll have a hard time finding someone to mod plate it unless they are very dodgy!

Yes you will most probably have to have to get the reo rewelded ( or find another one) and change your intercooler set up

subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted

Mate i would be finding out who originally wrote out the roadworthy certificate before you purchased the car.

Because if they passed it the way it is they might know someone who can give you a mod plate or they just did the big dodgey on you.

Keegs Grand Master

Keegs

Posted
Posted

it's far from impossible, nearly every decent workshop makes custom mounts for coolers to ensure the reo isn't cut. Then again, its hard to get caught as people rarely check behind a front bar to ensure the reo isn't cut, so thats why most "kits" etc require reo cutting.

jjjDavey Collaborator

jjjDavey

Posted
Posted

just a note about this.. the local bodykit builder here said that you can legally cut the front reo bar in the r33 as it can be bolted on and off the car and is not considered part of the chassis, however i would recommend against it as i modified the reo bar in order to fit on an aftermarket bumper.. last week i had a little accident where i barely hit the back of another car.. the other car is completely fine and my skyline is pretty messed up needing 5k worth of repair on it..

i can only think of one reason why it caused so much damage.. the reo bar was cut! so im sticking to a stock front bumper after the repair work..

CleanaR33 Rookie

CleanaR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks all for your replys - I should have also mentioned the car has just been fitted out with a full body kit (and $8k re-spray...) which includes a Trust front bar that required cutting small amount off the reo - I say a small amount because the reo had already been cut by previous owner in Japan. I purchased the car 5 years ago from a Brisbane 'street machines' dealer (Brisbane locals will know who I'm talking about...) and they (or the previous owner) had re-fitted the standard intercooler back on - presumably for compliance, but then how did it get complied with the cut reo if I've just been defected for it... I'll tell ya how - dodgyness.

I'm all up for dodgyness in this case and I'm not concerned about the crash damage potential - I just want someone to hook me up with someone who'll give me the required paperwork to get this sorted.

subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
Thanks all for your replys - I should have also mentioned the car has just been fitted out with a full body kit (and $8k re-spray...) which includes a Trust front bar that required cutting small amount off the reo - I say a small amount because the reo had already been cut by previous owner in Japan. I purchased the car 5 years ago from a Brisbane 'street machines' dealer (Brisbane locals will know who I'm talking about...) and they (or the previous owner) had re-fitted the standard intercooler back on - presumably for compliance, but then how did it get complied with the cut reo if I've just been defected for it... I'll tell ya how - dodgyness.

I'm all up for dodgyness in this case and I'm not concerned about the crash damage potential - I just want someone to hook me up with someone who'll give me the required paperwork to get this sorted.

Give AJM motorsport a call, they might hook you up.

There dodgey.

markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted
it's far from impossible, nearly every decent workshop makes custom mounts for coolers to ensure the reo isn't cut. Then again, its hard to get caught as people rarely check behind a front bar to ensure the reo isn't cut, so thats why most "kits" etc require reo cutting.

friggen hell must u contradict everything i say..?

so tell me about this decent workshop that doesnt cut a cooler..? supply a hybrid kit to a shop and i put money down they will cut it.. :P

Keegs Grand Master

Keegs

Posted
Posted
friggen hell must u contradict everything i say..?

I dunno, are you ever right? Reference case and point the sr20 thread you've been pwned in. Plus its entertaining stirring you up!

so tell me about this decent workshop that doesnt cut a cooler..? supply a hybrid kit to a shop and i put money down they will cut it.. :P

First of all I dont think anyone cuts the cooler...we're talking about the reo.

And the workshops cut it because the "kit" doesn't supply correct mounts, as I said...workshops such as millenium (and many others) will make new brackets or tell you of the risk. You said its impossible to get a cooler to fit without cutting the reo..this is blatantly incorrect...all it requires (in most cases) is new brackets...most people buy hybrid kits and are to cheap to spend money on new brackets. Then again, as I said, you rarely get caught...so why bother.

so_tred Proficient

so_tred

Posted
Posted

Why is it then even with big name brand kits, ARC, Blitz you have to cut the reo bar?

One would think they are trying to do things the right way and it's impossible to not cut the reo on some model cars?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...