Jump to content
SAU Community

U13 Bluebird Attesa Manual Series Ii

Impakt
 Share

Recommended Posts

Impakt Collaborator

Impakt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I wouldn't be surprised if this is one of the most powerful Bluebird Attesas in Sydney.. I am the first Aussie owner of the car, which was imported from Japan just for me. Car arrived completely stock, with ~56,000 kays in 2000.

Reason for selling: I don't need it anymore (public transport to work now).

It's a gun metal grey 1994 Bluebird Attesa with black top SR20DET which is stock on the outside but has the following engine/interior mods:

* GT25 Turbo (rated @ 350HP)

* 3" Liverpool Exhaust from dump back with twin tip HiTech muffler to look as close to stock as possible. Also pretty quiet for a 3" SR20DET.

* Garrett bar and plate intercooler (painted black) (core from Cooma Diesel - custom end tanks)

* Z32 air flow meter

* 600cc Injectors

* Chipped ECU (tuned by Unigroup on 4wd Dyno).

* R33 GT-R fuel pump

* 60mm throttle body from N14 Pulsar SSS

* Custom intake, Apexi filter, and relocated battery

* Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller

* Momo Race Steering Wheel

* Autometer Boost, Oil Pressure and Voltmeter gauges installed in spare DIN slot

* Pioneer Flip face Tape deck with 6 stack CD

* Pioneer Splits in doors

* Pioneer 6" 3 ways in parcel shelf

* ~120,000 kays.

* Tinted windows (20% tint - nice and dark)

* Brant immobiliser

* Rhino Alarm

* Factory front lip

* Made 166.6awkw at SAS on ~20psi. I think with a more agressive tune it can crack 180.

* All the mods were done myself unless shop mentioned above.

* Serviced every 5,000 kays

Never thrashed, gave it a hit every now and then but that's about it.

Has these standard bits:

* climate control

* power windows

* central locking

* power steering, etc

*Price $12,500 ONO

PM or reply if you want more info.. Pics hopefully this weekend.

Located in Sydney.

Impakt

Edited by Impakt
sneddy Contributor

sneddy

Posted
Posted (edited)

correct me if im wrong but is that turbo pretty much a step up from standard?? just trying to figure out why such a low power figure on 20PSI through a SR20DET is possible?? not trying to be rude either mate.. :P

hmm just read that the turbo is rated at 350HP... ummm that power out put don't make sense...

Edited by sneddy
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Oops, I meant to put in $Make an offer. The ones on carsales are ~10k, but they're either series I, auto, stock, ugly, or a combination of all 3.

Please refer to FORUM RULES; price MUST be stated.

Thanks

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
correct me if im wrong but is that turbo pretty much a step up from standard?? just trying to figure out why such a low power figure on 20PSI through a SR20DET is possible?? not trying to be rude either mate.. :wub:

hmm just read that the turbo is rated at 350HP... ummm that power out put don't make sense...

166 ALL wheel kw...

350HP max of air flow means it can produce 350hp worth of air.

that's at the engine.

350/1.34 to get kw = 261kw MAX at the engine.

this car is Constant 4wd not like the gtr.

so,

considering a stock wrx of 160kw will put out about 110kw at the wheels and has the same sort of drivetrain loss, you can see why his car is putting out 166kw at the wheels.

20 psi is not the max he can run with that turbo.

expect about 60kw loss to the wheels, I'd say that the most he could get at the wheels on that turbo would be about 200kw.

Also, he says he has a Garret intercooler from a COOMA diesel (I'm guessing some sort of truck..)

Possibly a bottle neck there.. I don't know.

anyway, it sounds like a well setup car.

Hope it sells soon for ya.

Impakt - if the price comes down to the $10K mark ever, let me know first please..

Thanks.

Impakt Collaborator

Impakt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gents, the core is a brand new garrett unit, not a cut down truck one. It's bar and plate too.

Cooma Diesel sell heaps of go fast bits for everything, not just diesel (when i got the core they did anyway).

GTST - I can't bring myself to sell it for that much considering how much stock/auto/ugly ones are going for these days..

Impakt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...