Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I SERIOUSLY doubt you'll find a ball-bearing turbo for under $1500. AFAIK the Highflowed SLIDE turbos are plain-bearing. In fact, I don't know that I've seen ANY ball bearing turbo's around, highflowed, new. or otherwise for under $1500. There's T3/4 hybrids kickin about new for $500 or less, but they're oil-cooled only cores. not too sure on quality or performance either.

hmmmm.. . . . . . .

How does the highflow compare to the std turbo? How noticable is it and how much diff in pwer?

Well mine isn't a slide (I'm sworn to secrecy) but I get the impression it's a similar result in power, lag, efficiency etc. The spool-up below 2,500rpm is possible, but not in the same game as the stockie. Above 3,500rpm tho, it kicks like a frikken Mule ! ! It's definitely not as "ready to go" about town when You're cruisin & give it a prod, but when you've got a few revs onboard to begin with, it's GOLD !

I don't even notice the lag 99% of the time now, just used to it I guess, & automatically adjust/pre-empt.

Well mine isn't a slide (I'm sworn to secrecy) but I get the impression it's a similar result in power, lag, efficiency etc. The spool-up below 2,500rpm is possible, but not in the same game as the stockie. Above 3,500rpm tho, it kicks like a frikken Mule ! ! It's definitely not as "ready to go" about town when You're cruisin & give it a prod, but when you've got a few revs onboard to begin with, it's GOLD !

I don't even notice the lag 99% of the time now, just used to it I guess, & automatically adjust/pre-empt.

So its much better than standard (disregarding lag etc)? Both cars I have owned hve been turbo and Ive never upped the boost/changed a turbo before so have never had an idea of how big the increase is.

Lag is not that bad with the standard slide hi-flows, for the small amounts of loss in response there is big time gains in both mid-range and top-end power. Even if you feel it is a bit laggy there are cheap ways of improving response without breaking the bank ie. Retarding ex cam gear, advancing base ignition timing with CAS adjustment, high-flow cats, high flowing mufflers etc.

The power difference is very noticeable, boost hits hard and keeps on pushing rather than plateauing like the standard turbo's do.

Edited by BAMR33
So its much better than standard (disregarding lag etc)? Both cars I have owned hve been turbo and Ive never upped the boost/changed a turbo before so have never had an idea of how big the increase is.

Oh I wouldn't bother with a dead-stock Skyline, I drove a few when I bought mine, and it just ain't no fun !

I'm at about 200rwkw, and I'd say that's just nice for a road car (I've got a fat torque curve tho, 16psi boost midrange, 'til the injectors hit 100% at 5,500rpm) but just barely a starting point for trackwork, IMHO. About 18psi and 250rwkw feels REAL fiesty on the road, I've ridden in one a couple of times, and it'll light up both rears in 2nd, straight-line style. =D

The stockie's restrictive exhaust housing/exducer limits flow to 180rwkw, 190 if you're lucky (or your dyno reads optimistically)

Stock turbo comes on smooth & quick, but ultimately won't set your pants on fire. The real-deal "turbo rush" comes from the laggier, harder-hitting delivery of bigger-flowing turbos.

It's fun :/

1. No frount mount.2.Standard clutch ( when you say my clutch should be replced is this because its going to slip from more power? Or your all just assuming im going to be drifting and doing burnouts?)3.Standard fuel system.4. Piggy back ecu ( IS that what the SAFC does?)

I have a turbo back exhaust (with standard dump pipe),

That's not a 'turbo back' upgrade exhaust.

You'll want to replace the front/dump pipes if yours are standard.

If $$ is an issuea (which it was for me), just get an all in one front/dump 3" from flying performance www.flyn.com.au or something similar.

I SERIOUSLY doubt you'll find a ball-bearing turbo for under $1500. AFAIK the Highflowed SLIDE turbos are plain-bearing. In fact, I don't know that I've seen ANY ball bearing turbo's around, highflowed, new. or otherwise for under $1500. There's T3/4 hybrids kickin about new for $500 or less, but they're oil-cooled only cores. not too sure on quality or performance either.

hmmmm.. . . . . . .

True if you're looking at brand new althought there is/was? a 2nd hand GCG high flow in the for sale in the last few days for $1350 i think and i got my HKS2535 delivered for $1200 from Japan (plus extra expenses on that one though for line etc)

For me, I'd go the 2nd hand GCG over a new Slide but that's just my personal preference.

That's not a 'turbo back' upgrade exhaust.

You'll want to replace the front/dump pipes if yours are standard.

If $$ is an issuea (which it was for me), just get an all in one front/dump 3" from flying performance www.flyn.com.au or something similar.

True if you're looking at brand new althought there is/was? a 2nd hand GCG high flow in the for sale in the last few days for $1350 i think and i got my HKS2535 delivered for $1200 from Japan (plus extra expenses on that one though for line etc)

For me, I'd go the 2nd hand GCG over a new Slide but that's just my personal preference.

Yeah Its just the standard dump I have, I have the 3inch Jasma front pipe :/ I will get onto replacing it. Whats better? 2.5Inch split ebay stuff or like a 3 inch single pipe exhaust shop job??

I can never remember which bit is which , front and dump. :/

Do a ring around some zorst places and ask how much to replace that piece then make your own decision.

Yeah will do. Ps dump is right off the turbo front is from dump to cat

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread guys,

but with this set up - what injectors do you guys use? or what to reccomend?

Ive got the slide hi-flow with other mods like powerFC,EBC, walbro fuel pump

Only thing now that is restricting me is the AFM and injectors

Reccomendations guys?

Cheers,

Chris :)

i have had a slide highflow on my 33 for about 8,000ks now,you can feel more power straight away,but you diffnately need a aftermarket ecu,i have only got the stock computer in at the moment,will put one in soon hopefully,with my car being auto,need to look for a computer that can run the autos well.also will get a high stall,fuel pump etc,but the car and the turbo has good potential to run a low 12sec or even a high 11 second pass,no doubt :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...