Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, we have some issues with the GTR. It can't develop boost more than 0.6 to 0.7bar(on twin 34 n1). However, the car drives absolutely fine within 0.6bar, all readings are as should be. We have tried to look fer many possibilities, firstly the most possible being a leak somewhere. All hoses and pipings dont seem to have any leak at all. Both turbos tested flow the same and flow very well when testing the flow out of the turbos directly. We have tried tightening the actuators more than it should be to push 1bar, but it still does not push more than 0.6bar. At first we were told that the boost solenoid of the old hks evc had gone, so a brand new avc-r has been put in, but it DIDN'T solve anything. Only thing we are onto is that the outlet side of the front mount intercooler doesnt seem to be pushing out air as strong as from out of the turbos. Could it be a clogged or leaking intercooler core? How should we go about testing it(pressure test?) n who is a good person to sort this out in brisbane?

The last track day we had quite a lot of blowby and oil did splutter out of the catch can and maybe it clogged up the intercooler? We saw decreasing max boost on the track that day from like 1.3bar dwn to 1.1bar, then down to 0.7bar and ever since it seems to be clogged and cant develop high boost. That said, i dunno if the oil is the cause of the boost problem. However, car drives absolutely normal when we put it back on stock 0.5bar of boost ever since then cuz the problem is still not sorted. I don't recall anything coming into physical contact with my frontmount to cause a crack etc at all. Im running out of answers to this boost problem. Wot other possibilities can there be fer the cause of not being able to hit high boost???

Need some help urgent in brisbane! Recommendations for someone who knows turocharged skylines and track cars very well and is free to get this sorted out will be greatly appreciated!!

Edited by J-Boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170370-unable-to-develop-high-boost/
Share on other sites

Yeah im planning to have the intercooler off and checked, wot kindda checks should be done on it? And wot kindda remedies are there for a clogged intercooler core, or is it only thru replacement of the whole core itself?

Well that would be depenadant on whats causing the block if that is infact the issue.. If its a damaged core you would see damage on the outside of the cooler. So i wouldnt expect that to be the case. If it is infact experiencing a large pressure drop across the core you all of a sudden you should be able to get an idea whats causing this restriction by examining it off the car.

Well latest update is that we think we are finally onto something and might get all this sorted out. The intercooler was pulled off and tested, it was perfect. What we found was that the 3.5" metalcat had its internals all melted due to a very rich tune n trackwork and was causing a big blockage. The cat has been replaced and the car will be going onto the dyno tomorrow to confirm if everything is sorted out or not. Hopefully thats the end of all this boost drama. I cant believe after all the time checking n changing hoses n checking everything under the bonnet that it mightt possibly turn out to be the cat giving me problems.

Yeah well hopefully its all sorted out tomorrow, but sheesh this was surely missed from the start, what a bitch having gone thru so much checking. That was prolly why the car was driving perfectly fine i guess. Seems like the MetalCat can't handle too richly-tuned track gtrs. It just lasted me slightly more than a year :( I think ill just go de-cat on the circuit. :P

Yeah well hopefully its all sorted out tomorrow, but sheesh this was surely missed from the start, what a bitch having gone thru so much checking. That was prolly why the car was driving perfectly fine i guess. Seems like the MetalCat can't handle too richly-tuned track gtrs. It just lasted me slightly more than a year :) I think ill just go de-cat on the circuit. ;)

Wouldnt it be a too lean running GTR? As the car runs leaner, the exhaust temp increases. As the car runs richer, the extaust temp drops. Or have i got it wrong?

Rhett

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...