Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Im trying to modify the wiring on the std boost solenoid in order to get full boost ... I read the DIY thread but it was a little unclear..

I was wondering if someone can explain it to me in other words.. I'm a little confused as to which end of black wire (ground) i should be grounding. and also it also talks about a lead wire to the black wire ???

I know I sound pretty hopless and i would appreciate any help ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170390-high-boost-with-stock-solenoid/
Share on other sites

if your unsure, why not ground both ends? or leave it, run your own wire on a switch through to a ground... then you can choose what you want :O

best idea is to cut off the plastic around the wire (not easy to do) connect your own wire, run it into the cabin onto a switch, run the otherside to the chasis... thats what ive done, its wicked :)

but what you could do if your unsure about which one to ground, start the car and try grounding one end... you can hear a click if it works...

have you already cut it?

yes... but you need a switch on that too...

your basically making a T with the wires... when the switch is off, it will act as normal, when its on, it will be in high boost mode...

so connect your wire to the stripped wire, run your wire into the cabin to a switch somewhere, mount the switch, then run the wire off the switch onto anywhere on the chassis...

get it?

and make sure to clean up everything, dont leave any exposed wire anywhere...

to wherever you wish to mount it...

find a place thats out of sight but still easily reachable...

there are a few switch houses on the dash near the steering wheel that were never really used... use one of those...

i know a place where you can put 5 that no one else has thought of yet... but thats my thing :woot:

geez you're secretive Doof. :woot:

just-drift-it: stick your head under your dash there are brackets all over the joint. i mounted my switch on the right hand side in the coin holder. the closest bit available for me is a bracket for holding one of the relays under the dash. even had a convenient hole for me to bolt a washer crimp thing onto

where is the best place to run the wire into the cabin from the solenoid??

On the same side of the engine bay as the solenoid, but on the firewall, there is a rubber grommet thing that probably already has some wires running through it. If you run the wire through there it will come out in the passenger footwell. I found that a wire coat hanger helped pull the wire through.

with this grounding solenoid stuff, i just ripped it off completely n ran a line straight from cooler pipe to actuator, never had any dramas, that was 7lb all day everyday.

Cool so this works does it?? so you bypass the solenoid completely and run off the actuator. its better this way i guess so you dont burn out the solenoid but is it safe?? any opinions

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...