Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TD 42 and td petrol use the same bottom end dan. the 4.5 and the 4.8 petrol jobs are also the same aprt from bore and stroke.

If you are gonna do it grab the 4.5 petrol number. Its a free 500 cc. The 4.8 would be the killer given that it already has the right head but its a bit thin on the ground.

Yeah but the TB45E has a bore/stroke of 99.5/96 whereas the TD42 has a bore/stroke of 96/96

The 4.5 will not rev as high as the 4.2 and the rod length/stroke ratio is right on for maximum torque and still being able to see 8k rpm.

I'm picking up the GT51R at the end of the financial year. :sorcerer:

  • Replies 222
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well screw you all im building my dream xp falcon after the cefiro is finished, it will house a twin turbo 347ci small block ford than will make rb's tremble at the knees.

Ford...snicker snicker. tee hee. Oh fucit. ROFL

well screw you all im building my dream xp falcon after the cefiro is finished, it will house a twin turbo 347ci small block ford than will make rb's tremble at the knees.

Yeah but you asre forgettng something very important....at the end of the day.....

when all is done.........

and everyone has left.........

it's still a bloody FORD!

Ford...snicker snicker. tee hee. Oh fucit. ROFL

yeah sorry i can slot a hemi in there, not quite enough room.

go check out the trick and mansweto (sp) capri and tell us if a small block chev can crank like that thing

Quite sure. Mouse thats m.o.u.s.e. The rat family are the big blocks. Mouse motors are small blocks. Ya wanna rev get a chev. :P

dude i may be young but i know more about the old stuff than any thing else, and nothing revs like a small block ford.

but people have been having this same disscussion for more years than i have been alive and its never been settled so lets agree to disagree.

post-25915-1180353996_thumb.jpg

^^^^^^^ford power^^^^^^^^^

dude i may be young but i know more about the old stuff than any thing else, and nothing revs like a small block ford.

but people have been having this same disscussion for more years than i have been alive and its never been settled so lets agree to disagree.

post-25915-1180353996_thumb.jpg

^^^^^^^ford power^^^^^^^^^

Agreed. :P

Agreed. :P

see who said that the qld section needs moderating when there is gentlemen like noel and myself around

by the way RB20 RULZ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...