Jump to content
SAU Community

Should I Get A Pfc Help Me Make Up My Mind!

PhilGTR

By PhilGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

Just want some opinions on whether or not i should get a Power FC for my GTR.

I initially bought the car with "bone stock" in mind but again like before i think the mod bug has hit me again. But i dont wanna go crazy and spend too much.

I am aiming for around 200rwkw with stock boost. I dont want to run anymore than standard boost but i want that sort of figure. Is this achievable with just a 3 inch exhaust from the front pipes back with metal cat and just a PFC and 10psi? Or is it still recommended that i get a boost controller?

If this is possible i may go this way as less boost = more reliable

Opnions? Thanks!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

14-15psi nets around the 250rwkw mark.

So i cant see it being impossible, more very possible... and with even less than you listed :cheers:

I reckon it could be done on the stock ECU.

Exhaust (and dumps)

10psi

Adj cam gear

Then and someone that knows what they are doing with the cam timing etc.... and you'll have 200rwkw i would safely bet.

WRRR Rising Star

WRRR

Posted
Posted

fwiw my R33 GTR went 180kw at the wheels with nothing but a 3.5" exhaust (Kakimoto N1), compliance cat, std air filter panel and stock boost (being bled off via a leaking plenum). Looking at the ECU it may have been modded though (Japanese writing engraved across the label).

I'm pretty sure you'd get 200 with the mods nismoid suggested, exhaust, better cat, better panel and take out the boost restrictor.

Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...
made_guy Experienced

made_guy

Posted
Posted

^^

haha yeah - what the!?

that reminds me of my ridiculous posts on a commodore forum - because you had to have a minimum number of posts before you could sell in the trader forum. e.g.

"Yes there is a good chance it will work"

"Definitely...unless it's not what you're after"

etc etc ;)

if you're sticking with stock boost and less mods overall, it might be better to spend the money on cams and a SAFC than a pfc?

onedollarodent Contributor

onedollarodent

Posted
Posted

hey Phil,

like "made-guy' says, if your gonna just want those simple mods then it might be better to get an SAFC and boost controller. The safc will let ya adjust fuel corrections to lean/rich your tune as needed. The PFC would be a more complete option if you are considering further mods.

I guess it comes down to what you want

ish Proficient

ish

Posted
Posted

you are on 200kw's + if you know where the little restrictors are ! your Standard ECU will learn this power not a problem!

Get a PFC if you want a plug and play upgrade for bigger turbos and around the 250 260 + kilowatt's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...