Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Controller Trust Profec B Spec Ii Or Blitz Sbc Spec R?

adzR34

By adzR34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
Posted

Hey guys in the market for a electronic boost controller... im looking at; Trust Profec B Spec II or Blitz SBC Spec R atm but i think i like the AVCR Apexi can anyone provide me with some experiences or feed back thanks.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)

the blitz (dual soleniod, spec-r onwards) is by far the best controller on the market, there are 1000's of tests on the net and in magazines with information.

check out how flat the boost line is on our car... and its controlling two wastegates.

post-34927-1180573079_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the blitz (dual soleniod, spec-r onwards) is by far the best controller on the market, there are 1000's of tests on the net and in magazines with information.

check out how flat the boost line is on our car... and its controlling two wastegates.

Wow thats a very flat graph curve youve got there!... theyre pricey btw, How do you think the Blitz compares to the AVCR APexi... im now thinking of it if i can get one up for ~500

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have the Profec B II, very easy to install, tune and controls boost very well.

Hmm Profec B sounds good,... Ive heard somthing about a gain feature Does the profec have this? Does it control how fast the boost arrives?

Bit unsure what that means :s

HR31_RB20DET Proficient

HR31_RB20DET

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hmm Profec B sounds good,... Ive heard somthing about a gain feature Does the profec have this? Does it control how fast the boost arrives?

Bit unsure what that means :s

Yeah it does, the gain feature is for boost consistency, the start boost (set gain) feature is what helps with spool times. I found you noticed this the most during gear changes.

Edited by HR31_RB20DET

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...