Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a brand new adjustable Cam gear that I was going to put on my previous car, but I now have a R34 GTT. The question I have is, the car is basically stock and will shortly be getting the timing belt changed. I want to know if it is worth putting my adjustable cam gear on while the belt is off.

Should I be installing my one cam gear on the exhaust or the intake (I have heard you only need the exhaust) or should I be buying another one and doing both?

What sort of advantages would there be to having an adjustable cam in the future if I had a turbo upgrade, exhaust, SAFC, and FMIC?

Or should I sell it and forget the whole thing?

There was a really good article in the latest HPI magazine on cam gears and wether they are worth it or not. I myself don't have one on my car so i don't want to agree or disagree wether they are worth it or not. The exhaust cam gear if installed, will have to be adjusted a degree at a time on a dyno to see if there will be any difference in top end, midrange or wherever. You adjust the cam gear by one degree, do a run and see how it went, if it made more midrange or something, u would adjust it another degree and see if it made things better or worse. On stock cams it might not make much of a difference, maybe 1-5rwkw. On aftermarket cams however they are extremely good at getting the most out of ur cams to have them adjusted to the best spot that you want to be making power at, and u may gain a significant improvement in power.

On a basically stock car like yourself, you may use up an hour or two on the dyno, pay $200 or so dollars in dyno time and maybe gain a couple of killowatts that you probably wont notice......up too you wether you think its worth it...

My 2c worth, feel free to correct me if i am wrong or have missed something.

Phil

Hey guys,

I've done this on my car, and there is very little difference really. R34 GTT

I spent a lot of money on a dyno to have this properly installed and tuned. They actually changed the gear ON the dyno so as not to upset the straps and get 100% accurate results.

As you can see by the graph below, the difference was marginal if not non-existent.

As for after market Cams, my Poncams are actually designed to run the best at 0 degrees. Tomei make them to be best at 0 so that you can just bolt them in.

I still have the adjustable cam gear on my car, but it's set at 0.

BASS OUT

post-6399-1180612845_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bass Junky

Basically, keep your cam gear/s tho...

Just do the bigger mods first, like ecu, fmic, cai, exhaust and a few engine tweeks (plugs, leads & coils if it blows your skirt up) and then go to the camshaft/camgear combo... You will get a lot more scope from them a cut a major portion of dyno time, which = saved $$$$'s...

I had a few friends who put adjustable cam gear (exhaust side) on.. n gained 10kw extra!!

Also comes down to the tuner!!

Most workshops will charge anywhere from 70-100 bucks an hour.

So go into a workshop and ask roughly how long it will take!!

edit: talkin about labour costs!!

not dyno time etc..

Edited by siddr20

If your timing belt is off you have nothing to lose in putting the adjustable cam gear on. It is literally a few bolts - about 3 minutes off and on.

If you add the other bits later you can then play with cam timing on the next tune.

In my opinion even with stock cams adjusting cam timing is of benefit if you are trying to maximise output/driveability.

Adjustable cam gear on std cams = power increase with dyno time. Best benefit can be had if you have a pfc, front mount etc etc etc.

Adjustable cam on tomei cams = no benefit cos Tomei's work best at 0 degrees.

Yeah thanks all. I guess I will get it put on when I get the belt changed. I plan on getting a FMIC and SAFC + fuel pump installed later on, but before then I will just set it to 0 but install it with the belt anyway. I only paid $70 for it so there isnt much to loose (less rolling resistance because it is alloy?)

If you aren't carefull when installing the cam gear on an old stock rubber belt you can end up stretching the belt, it may have already stretched over time. If you don't re-dial the cams afterwards you are likely to find that the magical 4 degrees isn't working, you might need 6 or so.

The 4 deg general rule applies to the R33's. R34 GTT Neo Rb25's have a solid lifter cam setup as opposed to the RB25's in R33's, they also have a different profile on inlet and exhaust cams. Making for some potential differences in timings and effects on moving the exhaust cams overlap around.

As for larger profile cams, you can always change the shape of the power curve by setting them at different timings. It it typical to be able to fatten the bottom end at the expense of peak power and any number of other variations. Having the option of setting the timing is a good thing for this reason.

  • 2 months later...

I only have the stock cam gears on my RB25, but i reckon until you'd completed the first basic mods there really isn't much point to chucking on the exhaust cam gear. only do it if you're gonna change the timing belt cause it'll save time for later.

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...