Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they didnt give you any install instructions??

Definately looks like the Turbosmart one

try here

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?s=downloads - should have the instructions

hi,

no it didnt come with instructions thats y i'm confused :)

they didnt give you any install instructions??

Definately looks like the Turbosmart one

try here

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?s=downloads - should have the instructions

Probably best not to until someone who knows what theyre doing says something lol

But i wouldnt leave it without a hose connected to it... run the hose through a hole in the engine bay somewhere or down out of the way.

And make sure you have the T peice the right way... ie. arrow towards the actuator... not towards the Turbo and the bottom part (red part of the T) runs to the controller (which until you get it turned on a dyno should really be completely closed)

it works as in in-out type device

be careful when messing around with boost control, if you do it wrong your car will run unlimited boost. that is, if you load the car up and its setup wrong boost wont stop rising so youll just do damage or fry something

intercooler pipework -> hose -> stock valve IN -> stock valve -> stock valve OUT -> turbocharger actuator

on the black intercooler pipes there is a nipple already. it has a tube on it that runs to where the turbocharger is.

its about the same size if not a bit thinner then the red tubing in the photo. you basically interject your unit in replace of the stock boost solenoid

intercooler pipework -> hose -> turbosmart boost valve IN -> turbosmart boost valve -> turbosmart valve OUT -> turbocharger actuator

so basically find the stock boost solenoid and replace it for your turbocsmart device then away you go.

the device is next to the right suspension tower, its attached almost next to it. with two tubes that run to it and some wires.

undo the tubes from this and run them to your turbosmart device. drive around and experient.

as you load the engine up watch the stock boost guage and make sure it doesnt hit +7 if it does, youve done it wrong and are running unlimited boost (this is bad)

all you do is replace the standard boost controller in the r33 with the one you bought. it acts in the same manner that the standard1 works. bottom hose on standard, to bottom port on new, and same for the top.

providing your standard boost solenoid is set up correctly, you should be fine.

ill get a pick later tonight of my set up of the standard solenoid and point out on the pic where the pipes go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...