Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got an email back from japparts.com.au they quoted me a nice tidy price on a aftermarket plenum and manifold package $700 + 45 shipping to canberra.

http://www.japparts.com.au/products/Intake/index.htm

Just a few questions.

What is the difference between top mount and low mount turbo manifold besides the obviese fact one will fit into the stock position and the other is mounted slightly higher?

Has any one tried one of these plenums or manifolds, if so whats the quality like?

How hard is it to install these badboys your self?

any help would be greatly apreciated.

cheers clint.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171200-front-facing-plenum-and-manifold/
Share on other sites

High mount exh mani/turbo: if you go to high mount you will ned to get all new lines to ur turbo, new dumps, etc etc... i believe it adds close to 1grand on the cost of a turbo/exh manifold to get installed cause of new lines etc if you get it done boy others

Intake plenum: i don't know - the crossover pipe is anoying, but from what i hear there are no great kw gfains over going new plenums, and i'd want it tested on a flow bench to nmake sure that i wasn't leaning out any cyclinders cause of a dodgy ebay rip off design.

Very true, the standard plenum is more than efficient enough to handle a decent increase in power, so unless you're aiming for 350+awkW, then the only real advantage of the front-facing throttle on the plenum is the shorter inlet tract from the intercooler.

Like captinsane has said, if you were to go with a high-mount, then the extra expenses involved would probably outweigh the benefits on a bang-for-your-bucks scale.

i was looking at the front facing plenum in order to shorten the pipe from the intercooler so i wouldnt have to go through that much pain to get it fitted but sounds like its exactly the same amount of trouble.

So if i get a new manifoild but a low mount one i should still be able to use all my old lines etc?

the intake/plenums on that site look like a greddy copies.. does anyone know how these (copys) perform? the greddys are suppose to be ace but i haven’t heard much about the copys

i have a plazmaman plenum in my RB25 240z project, it cuts out over a meter of the pipes required for FMIC. cuts the a fair bit of lag, delivers cooler air to the engine (compared to standard plenum FMIC setup) also tidys up the engine bay quite a bit.

as for high mount exhaust manifold, i think its just a easier way to make all the individual cylinder to turbo exhaust pipes all the same length.. and to also show off the turbo a bit more :thumbsup:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20copy&st=0

this was sposed to be the tester forum but unsure how far they got with actually testing it, there is how ever alot of awsome info on the desription of the ebay greddy copy ones have a read you might come across somin good

truth is that i would love one... but the cost of a front facing pklenum when i could spend it on something else, with the possibility of it being a crappy write off and srewing me around is not worth it for now... not for my stagea and the power target i have anyway. And the cost of going high mount, cannot be justified. I'd rather spend the money on a VG30 high flow turbo which mounts up to the stock flange, stays out of sight so no bad attention from coppas, and i'm not wasting money on stuff i don't need (again, keeping the practicability and stock power figures in mind) as i would be probably not going past 300awkw by the time i am finished and completed :bunny: (unless i go rb30/26 when i am rich and a rockstar - hi5 for awesome :thumbsup:)

F*ck it they look to be "OK" quality tell ya all what ill buy one and put it in and will post up my findings with those three mods.

new low mount manifold, the front facing plenum and the FMIC and ill see if i can write up some fitting instructions with pics.

cheers all and stay tuned.

F*ck it they look to be "OK" quality tell ya all what ill buy one and put it in and will post up my findings with those three mods.

new low mount manifold, the front facing plenum and the FMIC and ill see if i can write up some fitting instructions with pics.

cheers all and stay tuned.

Nice, even though this is the stag section I would be interested on your finding as I have always wondered the same as well for my 33 gtst. Keep us in the loop as to the outcome and how it goes, perhaps in a "how to section" could save MANY members thousands of $$$ should it all go ok.

Good work!

theres still alot of pipe work there that isn’t needed

this is considered to be the "cheaper" option, works just as well as any front facing plenums or manifolds

picture027fo7.jpg

if anyone cant tell whats been done, the TB outlet has been chopped and welded to the front of the plenum. pretty cool

also in that topic about the greddy intake, heres a comment on the copy’s

hey, guys those copy things are cheap but is shit. I bought those few month ago, u need to get some1 to tidy the surface, especially the face that attach to the engine block, is damn rough all around u can c little tiny hole on the top or too much on the bottom. It 100% need to be tidy up b4 u fit, as i tried to save that hundred buck and fitted and start, fuel and air leaking from the intake. Finally i told myself, do it once , do it right so bought the genuine greddy, u can tell the different.
Edited by Brycey

a quick search on SAU will show that there is more than reasonable doubt about the effectiveness of cutting and shutting the factory plenum.

fred gibson was no mug. perhaps the better distribution of air is worth the 50cm of pipework.

the simple reason you get a topmount mani

to get a big ass turbo

you are limited to the size on teh stock manifold...i could only get so big of a turbo and not worry about spacers, or going topmount

other than that, its bling.

absolutely... i wouldn't worry about the front facing plenum too much - cross over pipes still seem to work ok for these blokes (see pic attached), and the longer runners coming off the cross over manifold (as opposed to shorter runners off the side mounts on both the RB26 and 25) are supposed to give more production in torque (not that the 25 produces more torque than the 26, hell no it's a completely different engine farkin). Sure, they have a high mount intake mani, but they have spent 4+ grand on their turbo set up too :) it hasn't been in order to create bling cheaply or anything, it is purely practical, and a purely sexy rb25 at that also :)

the photo is taken from the "car season" drift team's rwd S2 stagea

post-32616-1181095434_thumb.jpg

not just Bling,

It also has the advantage of cleaning up a bit of clutter over your engine, the one thing i real realy wanna know is does the pipe running from your front facing plenum to your intercooler get in the way of getting to your oil filter every time you have to do a service ? or does it block any thing els?

It moves your oild filter mount up onto your strut tower so that it's easier to reach when you do your oil and filter changes. Can be bought with or without an oil cooler. Most oil cooler kits come with the relocation kit included (not sure if all do, though).

It moves your oild filter mount up onto your strut tower so that it's easier to reach when you do your oil and filter changes. Can be bought with or without an oil cooler. Most oil cooler kits come with the relocation kit included (not sure if all do, though).

cheers mate sounds like a plan any idea on what cooler kits do come with this relocation kit?

your best bet is to get hte Greddy relocation kit

And then get a UNIVERSAL oil cooler

and run your own lines

Summit racing has them for reference.

you can use a donor from many cars, including Mitsu Galant and others.

costs around 230 USD total

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...