Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, I'm a bit on the drunk side, so bear with me. After about 15min of solid debating. No one between my buddies and I can descide on the reasoning behind the fact that the brake pedal in automatic cars, is more than twice the size of the pedal in manual transmission cars. It seems to me they could have easily just added a larger foot rest, or maybe a place to hide a firearm. Instead they just made the pedal really damn big. Hopefully someone can tell me why the pedal is so large.

Also, as long as were at it. Im curious to see what peoples ideas are as to something we could put in the spot where the clutch normally is, instead of just making the brake pedal larger. I personally think a toaster, and a place for butter and/or jelly would be an excellent thing to put there.

Edited by Rabid
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Your drunk at 5.55pm on a Monday night, then come on here asking that question?

Anyway, good question. Google has NOTHING. What I find funny is when the pedal has 'brake' writen across it. So maybe thats it. It wouldnt fit on a manual sized pedal.

But I think auto pedals should be even size. So like the accelerator is as big as the brake. So they can both be bigger.

It's so grandma always knows where to stomp in case of emergency.

LMAO On that note, an old lady today almost got herself killed today, i was turning right and she was pulling away from the kerb and instead of accelerating to get out of my way, she hit the brake and i almost went into her door. We seriously need some kind of basic crash avoidance course because people have no f**king idea what to do in emergencies. I have a mate who pulled his handbrake at 90km/h because his car stalled and he had no brakes, he paniced, pulled it really hard and ended up in a pole. Ive done a driving course, next on my list is CAMS license :thumbsup: man i cant wait!

How about this answer:

The brake pedal gets used more in automatic cars - therefore larger pedal to prevent it wearing out?

In manual cars most people gear down instead of braking hence less wear on the pedal, therefore smaller pedal.

makes sense to me :thumbsup:

Your drunk at 5.55pm on a Monday night, then come on here asking that question?

Anyway, good question. Google has NOTHING. What I find funny is when the pedal has 'brake' writen across it. So maybe thats it. It wouldnt fit on a manual sized pedal.

But I think auto pedals should be even size. So like the accelerator is as big as the brake. So they can both be bigger.

haha that reminds me of my old school caretaker's buggy thing. it had two pedals too. a big green one that said GO and a big red one that said STOP.

maybe the pedal is bigger because us auto drivers have bigger feet. and you know what they say bout big feet.... :thumbsup:

Your drunk at 5.55pm on a Monday night

I'm east coast, United States. It was more like 3 or 4am for me, on Sunday night.

and you know what they say bout big feet...

Large shoes?

I still think there should be a toaster in that spot instead. I can't tell you how many times I have been driving, thinking to myself "I could really go for some toast right now.. or a pop tart.. or toaster strudel", only to be disappointed by the fact that I have a clutch pedal instead of a toaster. Dodgey engineering for sure.

They made it that big so you can put both feet on the pedal, it's called toe toe braking, only the best racing drivers use this method.

I thought when you put both feet on it, it was called 'OHH SHIT!!' braking..

A wider brake pedal would make it easier to left foot brake, as you don't have to put your two feet as close together and possibly foul each other.

Not saying its the reason, just suggesting it as a reason.

Has anyone driven some of the newer auto's that has a foot brake instead of a handbrake? For those that don't know about it, they install this foot brake/pedal exactly where the clutch is on a manual car.

Has anyone subconsciously tried to clutch an auto and hit this foot brake before?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...