Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone confirm whether or not when you use an electronic boost controller, does that negate the differences between using rb20 vs say rb25 wastegate actuators.

I remember reading once that the difference in is like 7 to 10psi or so though if you use say an AVCR it nullifies the advantage in sticking with a rb20 actuator.

-Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171441-avcr-and-the-actuator/
Share on other sites

RB25 wastgate act. is 5psi, RB20 is 10psi

Changing to the RB20 means the AVCR doesn't have to work as hard.

That's the theory anyway, don't know if it makes any difference in the real world though.

Just use whatever you have and go for it.

If you wanna change actuators later, it's only a 5-10min job anyway

..so the answer is yes, you should get close to the same results with either

anyone else?

If You only wanna run 12-13psi, go with the 5psi rb25 actuator, to give the AVC-R more control. If You wanna punch more into it, go the 10psi RB20 actuator so that it won't crack the wastegate open until 10 pound. This'll help quicken spool-up, by not bleeding any gas past the wastegate.

The AVC-R will start tweakin the solenoid at 0.3 bar regardless, so I doubt it'd affect how hard it works, only the duty cycle.

In otherwords, he's saying read birnies post :D

at stockish boost levels, I found that changing actuators with an ebc didn't really do much in terms of spool time. What it did do is it made it hard to make it slightly over wath the actuator is rated to e.g. with the r32 actuator (11ish psi), it was harder to run 12 psi than with the rb25 actuator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
    • Good old Orange Park hey... 😛   f**k I miss that race track
    • lo, it was a death trap. Good times. Got any Fatz Drift Day DVDs still available?
    • Yes, overthinking. Many PS reserviors are completely opaque. Our Skyline ones, for example. Have to remove lid, peak inside, swirl the dipstick, try to remember how to read it, etc etc. Normal. Radiator overflows are often sufficiently opaque and scunged up that you can't see the true level inside anyway, and have to open and have a peak. Besides which, I replaced the (massively expensive, even back then) plastic overflow in my Alfa GTV, back in the '90s with a stainless one that I had a good fabricator make up to be dimensionally same-same, that looks remarkably similar to the Bogan's Moroso one above, and I never suffered any particular paranoia that I didn't know how much coolant was in it.
    • Looks great, but I'm always concerned that it makes it difficult to see what level the fluids are at. Am I overthinking this?
×
×
  • Create New...