Jump to content
SAU Community

Drag results ...

hippy

By hippy,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Freebaggin Proficient

Freebaggin

Posted
Posted

Clint32,

Shit, I saw your reply and thought doh myself, as I forgot about your runs. I assumed the E/Ts were better than mine due to the very quick top end. Get your launch OK and it'll be a 12s job for sure. Chris32 had trouble getting a good start/rpm balance too.

Bugalugs Enthusiast

Bugalugs

Posted
Posted

Thank u Ivan/RPM Performance for a great day.

It was my first time down the 1/4 so it was nice to do it without a big crowd.Part of the reason why i wanted to do this was to backup my dyno results from the dyno day at Tilbrooks and prove that it was no fluke.

My best was [email protected] 60` and as Freebags said i did do a 106.99mph 13.5.

It was good to catch up with you guys again and when i'm settled into my new house i should be able to get out crusin again.

Freebaggin-I'm not sure how long that gasket is going to last being that you are missing 2 studs.You may have to order that T88 earlier than you thought so they can fit and fix all at once to cut cost.

Grepin-I`m still baffled by your low mph.I spose just let WW2 begin and kick F/B`s ass then.

Matt

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Yep, it was a top day, big thanks to RPM

I had a few good runs, but I really struggled to get it off the line. My best run of the day was 14.03 @ 104.9mph with a 2.5 sec 60ft

Don't reckon the hard track style suspension and cheap Falken's helped much, maybe next time I will get some decent rubber and try and knock 1/2 a second of my 60ft times.

At least after 8 runs nothing broke

Chris

Maxx Veteran

Maxx

Posted
Posted

Thank u Ivan/RPM Performance. Specially borrow me the tyre pressure gauge :rolleyes:

never been to drag race b4, i was VERY excited. have 2 15sec pass with 32 psi tyre ,then i borrow ivan's gauge and release the tyre pressure to 22psi and done a 14.5.

being the slowest skyline (tubro) of the day,[email protected] with a 2.299 60'.With same mod of other member(exhaust, intercooler, boost controler) I found that even i have a OKAY lanuch, my car start get slow down at 2 or 3 gear, (seems the boost pressure can't keep at what i set) i try to adjust from 12psi to 13.5psi and guess what, i did worse time in 13.5 psi - [email protected]

i have order a e-manage from japan this morning after doing some disappoint time. With better tyre, hopefully i can break into 13.5 at the next meeting.

after 9 runs, my heavy duty clutch is not heavy duty anymore :)

Maxx Veteran

Maxx

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by hippy

agree with u skyppy .. i saw alot of ur runs tin .. u also got not so good launches .. that greddy emanage would cost something like 1k?? spend it on ur suspension .. lighten flywheel ... tyres ... its all power and torque ... not that i know anything about drag racing .. :rolleyes:

i already got tein HR suspension on my car

i was quite interest at lighten flywheel, but someone told me they will affect the drive quality. Actually anyone who have it, can u told me what is good or bad after having it? but anyway, it won't be purchase until i blow my clutch

tyre was a definate, they are quite worn, i am still waiting my aftermarket rim arrive from oversea, so tyre will be purchase when the rims land.

from the MPH i run, even i got better tyre, i might be just able to break into 13sec, as my aim is low 13 or even high 12, i need more power(more boost). When i get the e-manage, i can have more power and even running higher boost, i can buy them for around $700, and i already have a e-01 to match, rather than a pfc for doulbe the price, it seems not a bad idea...

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Lightened flywheel's only really improve your acceleration from lower in the rev range. When at the drags you are always operating at the top end of the rev's i.e 5500-7000rpm so apparently the lightened flywheel is not benificial.

I have a chrome molly lightened flywheel and noticed at the lights it was easier to take off, gears rev match heaps quicker. For the street lightened flywheels are quite good. No loss of drivability or fuel consumption.

Maxx Veteran

Maxx

Posted
Posted

the best things to improve the time instead of spending more on the car, is improving my launching skills and shifting skill.

i think i shift alright... :D

Maybe a bit of weight deduction on my car, but more important, is LOSTING weight myself!! :D

i was 75kg when i come to Aus. 3 years ago, and i am near 100kg now, if i can lost some weight to i used to(75kg), the car is 25kg lighter,plus take the audio (2xkg) and spare tyre (10kg?)out, definatelly can be 1/2 sec faster!!!;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...