Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by PuppaDuck

Having a similar problem when I reverse some times...

getting a whiring noise while the clutch is half way out...

put it all the way out, or back in, and it goes away...

totally random for over 3 years...no problems

how much are thrust bearings ?

and is it something that is good to get done when the clutch is out anyway ?

Mine does the same thing as PuppaDuck's, but only very rarely.

It the thrust bearing definitely the cause of this? Cos if it is, I want to get it changed, its sooo annoying when it does it!

  • 1 year later...
This might help.....thrust bearing noise will only be evident when the clutch is engaged i.e. pedal depressed. So if you got the wirrrrrr before the pedal is down look at input bearing in gearbox.

Isn't this the opposite of what the other guys are saying? I'm confused....

My car also makes this clutch noise. It's noisey (whiring noise) when the clutch is out. Push the clutch in though and the noise goes away. So this isn't the thrust bearing?

wil..

I have a loud input shaft bearing...

I also get the gruuuurrrr noise mostly when it is cold and i'm riding the clutch very first thing in the morning. Generally on reversing as this requires the most clutch slip.

Its only every now and again though. I dip the clutch then reslip and it most of the time goes away.

Generally if its an input shaft bearing you will hear it spin down after you have pressed the clutch in fully. A thrust bearing wirr will stop instantly upon pressing the clutch.

The thrust bearing is located in the bell housing attached to a release lever . This lever is the one you see protruding out the side of the bell housing which is activated by the clutch slave cylinder ie clutch pedal..

Thrust bearing is not spinning until the clutch pedal is pressed. When the clutch pedal is pressed the release lever forces the thrust bearing against the clutch plate fingers.

In neutral the thrust bearing is not spinning, it only spins when the clutch pedal is pressed. If when you push the pedal down the noise disapears it is not a thrust bearing noise. Therefore if you have a noise in nuetral with clutch out its not a thrust bearing noise because the thrust bearing is not spinning.

A wirring noise in neutral in the RB gearbox is commonly found to be the input shaft bearing.

Parts available at Nissan Dealers.. this is a gearbox open job.

Sorry...this is becoming a saga. Just to affirm the input bearing noise,here is proof.When the clutch pedal is pressed this disengages the gearbox ( via the clutch ) from the engine.At this point the gearbox input shaft is not spinning, so there will be no wirrr from the gearbox input bearing shaft while the clutch is in.

Noise issue revisited:

I had the spigot bush, thrust bearing and clutch changed.

The quiet whirring noise was still there when you leave the clutch out, but the scary noisy whirring disappeared.

A few months on and I get the loud whirring noise every cold winter morning when I start the car. Almost like there is no oil in the car, or the oil hasn't warmed up yet.

Then I start noticing that the noise only happens when I downshift into 2nd mostly, but also down to 3rd as well.

Also, it seems to happen when I push the clutch ALL THE WAY IN.

The clutch does its job when you push it in a little, but I still push it further down for completeness. So this is when the bad whirring noise happens.

After seeing my mates new Honda Accord Euro, I had to drive home tonight disappointed in my crunchy whirry Skyline.

Felt like retiring and getting a new luxury auto - but only for about 5 minutes.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...