Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heheh like i said.. probably more suited for the SR motors..

yeah i can vouch for the beneifits on SR (but i still prefer to use decent engine mounts but not NISMO on sr they aint flash at all... URAS or KAZAMA are the go)

sid, the mounts look exactly like the stock ones. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference looking at what you've got on your car now (e.g. look at the mount under the gearbox). They just have a harder duro rubber in there.

I think the issue with the engine damper for the r33, is the bracketing on both sides is no good. i've used engine dampers on sr20s, like the other guys say, they are noticeable. You feel more harshness etc. On the r33, wasn't noticeable.

the problem is how the r33 has that flimsy bracket which mounts on the strut tower which looks like the harbour bridge. Also, like uras said, how it just mounts off the engine lifting bracket.

If someone actually made a decent damper, it would work.

In regards to the mounts, my car still has stock engine mounts. Even though they're a few years old, they're still OK compared to other cars out there. Drove another r33 with nismo mounts, and the difference was very noticeable. Harshness didn't really increase, but it really made a lot of difference to the gearstick wobble when you back the throttle and clutch in, the box move like crazy anymore.

oh, also, for mounts, I lost the link, but I was reading this site where guys recommend filling the mount with this black silastic compound (works especially well with worn mounts). I think the compound was someothing like window sealant or something. really stiffens them up.

  • 6 years later...

thread revival...after buying one of the JJR engine dampers - they're cheap, I was curious - and getting it and pulling it apart, I can't see how it wouldn't do anything. I thought they were a shock absorber type thing but it's actually a couple of rubber mounts inside, so would stop any rocking of the engine but still cushioning so it's not vibrating against solid metal. The "harbour-bridge" bracket is reasonably thick metal, and mounts to both the strut tower top, and 2 points on side as well. Seems fairly solid now installed. Only just did it and yet to do any real driving on it, but from the construction of it, would seem it does what it says it's supposed to do, stop the engine moving around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...