Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently bought a gt2871r garrett and am putting it on my rb25.

Wat i have on the car

Frontmount

Aftermarket manifold

custom made dump pipe and full exhaust

pod to stock afm to turbo

custom water and oil feed lines and t3 to 28 adapter

boost gauge

safc I

Actuator on the turbo is at 9 pound i think but want to get it changed and tuned to 1 bar. wat else will i need,

will this all run ok? plug gaps be alright? and i have been told that i will need to restrict the oil flow to the turbo as there is too much and will where out seals quicker?

any comments, suggestions pointers are welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171729-rb25det-turbo-upgrade-gt2871/
Share on other sites

Well you havent told us what plug gap your running now.

So somewhere around a rock and a hard place is where you've put us :D

What did the turbo supplier tell you about it?

Some need restrictors, some dont.

You really need some sort of ECU before you go winding up the boost.

Well you havent told us what plug gap your running now.

So somewhere around a rock and a hard place is where you've put us :O

What did the turbo supplier tell you about it?

Some need restrictors, some dont.

You really need some sort of ECU before you go winding up the boost.

Plug gap is .8 and im just going to get a bigger actuator and use my air fuel control, that will work wont it. I only want to run it on 1 bar, stock ecu should be able to handle that??

The turbo will have a restrictor built into the oil feed. If you are paranoid you can get the turbo end fitting on your new lines welded up and re drilled to a smaller size (i dont know the size off the top of my head, roughly .8mm from my very sketchy memory).

Otherwise you have no problem. plug gap is fine, do the fuel pump as suggested, safc will be alright for what you want to do but it will be a bit of a compromise.

Exact spec (trim, A/R) of the turbo will determine both maximum potential output, and the torque DELIVERY. That delivery will be a big factor in how the clutch lasts, but not as much as how the operator looks after it. Hammering it off the line, clutching it regularly to big smoky slides will see it die fairly quickly.

FWIW, my 2871 based high flow running 13.5psi max and 225rwkW gave the stock clutch no problems transmitting the drive without slippage.

Spec dependent again, at 1 bar SL1D1N should be looking to a maximum potential output range between 210 - 240rwkW. That would be beyond the stock fuel system's capacity. And that is how he should view the fuel system - as a SYSTEM. Pump, injectors, pressure regulator. Changing FPR might bump up the max fuel delivery, but probably run into issues elsewhere in the load/rev range.

If the budget isn't there yet, I'd say stick with the 9psi actuator and tune the thing with the interceptor. 180-190rwkW should be the result.

If the finances ARE available, get either a Nismo/Tomei drop in pump, a set of bigger injectors like either the S15 450cc units or 555cc Nismos, and most importantly a decent ECU. Then slip the 1 bar actuator in and get it tuned. Depending on the ECU, may be able to eliminate the AFM.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...