Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i've got a 96 SII R33 gts-t 5 speed. Got 90 000kms on it and basic mods.. splitfire coil packs, k&n filter, boost controller on 9 psi, 34 cooler and stock exhaust.

Problem is ever since ive got it.. even before i did the above mods, every now and then i put my foot down and the boost goes up on the gauge.. turbo's spooling.. cars revving.. but it's not going anywhere:s well it is just really really slowly.. much slower than it's suppose to. I would say it's something to do with the air/flow meter or a boost leak or something but don't know where it could be coming from.

Kind of jerks a bit when it does it too.. could it be misfiring? It kinda feels the same as when i let it rev 5000rpm + just kinda makes noise but doesn't do anything. Hard for me to tell if its misfiring as the factory exhaust is so quiet and whenever i go to show someone else it doesn't do it:@

Anyone experienced this or got any recommendations?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171818-r33-running-sus/
Share on other sites

your stock exhaust is very restrictive and probably stopping you from making much power.. get an aftermarket exhaust with high flow cat and you'll know about it.

as for whether or not there is a problem.. if you say the car is revving and not going anyway, i'd be suspect on the clutch slipping perhaps ???? if it was missfiring / boost leak / AFM you'd notice fluctuations in the revs. if the revs appear to be normal, then i'd guess its the clutch or something in the drive train.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171818-r33-running-sus/#findComment-3165966
Share on other sites

yeah i've got a new heavy duty clutch. the revs dont shoot through the roof they continue climbing just slower with occasional slight jerk.. sorry i can't really explain it better than i have:s

yeah im going to get the full exhaust when i get tax back fingers crossed it wont still be doing it but seems liek it's something electrical or boost related to me.

fingers crossed the exhaust is a noticeable difference as well lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171818-r33-running-sus/#findComment-3166000
Share on other sites

new platinum spark plugs 5000kms ago.. might check them anyway though. Haven't thought about fuel pump but maybe i should swap it with another one or test it. Do they usually conk out at 90 000 though? AFM looks clean to me. Due for a timing belt service soon maybe i should get them to look at it if i haven't fixed it by then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171818-r33-running-sus/#findComment-3166190
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...