Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

caminperth, I've had this exact same thing happen to me twice in the last week, both times in really cold weather. Your first guess was right, I'm fairly sure its a voltage induced fuel cut. Its harsh too, like someone suddenly slamming the brakes for an instant.

A fuel cut defender is very risky. Because the AFM is at max voltage, the ecu really doesn't know how much load the engine is under and so can't fuel it at all well. Like flying blind. The ecu would just see flat 5V coming at it until the flow drops below 5V.

The only alternatives are lower boost on cold nights (painful for me with a bleeder), or a Z32 AFM and anything you need to get it working (ecu etc). I've heard of ppl using Z32 AFM's with blue screen SAFC's, and the SAFC II definetly supports it, but I think it'd be a cludge to get it working with our 5 dial jobbies. It could work though, the Z32 AFM's are still 0-5V, just using a different scale. The ecu can figure out closed loop for itself and the SAFC can compensate everywhere else. But it is still a huge cludge.

bam - you win.. good work.. :P

Gradenko/Paul - got it spot on.. thats exactly what happens. I supose i could run lower boost when it's cold - but thats painful cause i want to go faster and take advantage of the cold weather.. :P

hmm looks like a new ecu could be on the cards after a cooler.. i'm not interested on wasting money going down the path of dodgy fix-ups.. would like to do things properly because experience tells me it's the easiest and cheapest way.. :P

U can disengage fuel cut

When your SAFC is mapped on the dyno when your AFM reaches 100% your computer still pumps out pulses for injectors so the tuners just bump the AFC up or down accordingly

Its quite accurate but of course at the time u do reach 100% its time to upgrade to Z32 or MAP :)

I'm suprised ppl with upgraded turbos and stock afm's (aidwin?, macka?) aren't hitting the fuel cut in the this weather. We can't be flowing more air than them with our stock turbo, maybe our afm's are faulty? You two should go out "testing" tonight and get back to us. :P

I'm having the exact same issue with my car. So getting an SAFC-II tuned properly will eliminate this ?

I still dont know how the car senses boost ? anyone enlighten me?

Also getting an EBC in the next few weeks... I thought these negated the need for an FCD ?

Ours car's don't sense boost directly, but measure the air flow load (and density) through the afm. More boost = more air flow = higher afm voltage. So the problem we're having is, sensible boost + super dense air = max afm voltage.

Z32 AFM and SAFC-II should work.. in theory. Where's steve-sst when we need him?

The difference between cars could be explained by variance in the afm's operating voltage over a (up to) 10 year period. I mean, when the car was new, they had to deal with climates that included seasonal snow, so the afm should really be able to handle cold, dense air without freaking out. That's one possible theory, but it's probably not the right one. :P

Originally posted by Gradenko

Ours car's don't sense boost directly, but measure the air flow load (and density) through the afm. More boost = more air flow = higher afm voltage. So the problem we're having is, sensible boost + super dense air = max afm voltage.

i'm not sure if i'd call me running 0.9bar on a stock cooler "sensible" - but it's great fun.. :(

I have a series 1 blue screen for sale if anyone interested

Hasnt had much bloody use :D

Gradenko as Paul says i had a retuned Standard computer which removed my over boost cut(air volume) and 180kmh cut but since then ive sold it and running lower boost

In fact im not running any boost i was bored on the weekend so i took the turbo off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...