Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All parts in good condition (taken off car for upgrades) unless otherwise noted.

Aftermarket Parts

- BNR32 JIC Magic coilovers with pillowball top mounts, spring rates are 12K/9K. 4 level adjustable damping. Not current model but in great condition. $550 SOLD

- BNR32 320km speedometer (33062km). $250 Comes on total dash pod for free but RPM is not working SOLD

- Mines BNR32/33 computer. Good upgrade for standard motor with exhaust mods. Has speed cut, improves boost and works fine on 98 octane. $150 SOLD

- BNR32 K&N pod filters with mounts and very clean filters $125

- BNR32 HKS Attessa Controller with very rare drag option gives full traction control. Just in plug in with no wires to cut. $950 Price cut $650

- Defi 60mm BF link water temp meter. Instrument only without cables or sensors. Good if you already have a Defi controller. $70

Stock part

- BNR33 Stock Turbines with wastegates. Excellent condition (no shaft play) PN# 14411-24U04 $350

- BNR34 wide bell dump pipes with heat covers $80 SOLD

- BNR32stock exhaust manifolds $100

- BNR32 stock cataltic converter with no damage to core$50 SOLD

- BNR32 block, crank 74000km $600 SOLD

- BNR32 RB26 rods $100

- BNR32 RB26 head with standard valve train and cams (#6 combustion chambermunched due to dropped valve). Would need TIG welding to repair $300

- BNR32 cam timing upper cover$30 SOLD

- BNR 26 cam gears$30

- BNR32 rear lower suspension wishbones. All bushes and ball joints tight. Useful if you want to press in nolethene bushes but don't want your car off the road) $75

- BNR32 rear upperfrontand rearsuspension arms. Same as above. $50

- BNR32 stock BOV piping(but not BOVs or rail itself). Useful for compliance $30

- BNR32 fuel regulator $50

- BNR32 front brakes (rotors, pads, brackets, calipers and SS lines) Very good condition with 32mm of disk. Pads 40% remaining $400 SOLD

- BNR32 stock intercooler. Good condition. One tiny nick on front but no leakage $125

- BNR32 stock ignition coils $125

- BNR32 stock horns $20

Happy to arrange postage at buyer's expense except for very large items.

Click links for photos.

Edited by Andrw Le Lievre
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 6 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...