Jump to content
SAU Community

Power FC + HC install results

Torrens

By Torrens,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Torrens Collaborator

Torrens

Posted
Posted

Thought I'd share the experience here.

This will be of most interest to QLD'ers as it seems there is no real clear best tuner up here that we know of to tune these things. Some are too expensive, some have had bad stories - there didn't seem like there was any clear best tuner.

I decided to go to Brisbane Tuning and Turbo Center, because they seemed to have a pretty good reputation with the board members here. They also had the dyno facilities on site which gave them a big plus in my books.

When I arrive, I saw a R33 GTR and an Evo VI parked on the premises - cool. Apparently the GTR was making around 1000hp - with a t78 turbo kit. They are now selling a R33 GTR FMIC for $700 if anyone is interested. Painted black...

Took them less than 5 minutes to remove the standard ECU which was a bit of a surprise because I wanted them to do a before-and-after dyno run. Was no problem - but had to go to work before I saw anything else done. I gave them both the PFC and hand commander manuals in a printed english format - they absolutely loved that.

To get to the good bits:

My R33 gtst already had a full exhaust. Apexi pod, CAI, custom 3" front and dump pipes, high flow cat, and apexi N1 cat back. Boost is untouched from stock.

Picked up the car next day - got a 10k service done as well.

Result?

Before Apexi PFC: 150rwkw (201rwhp)

After Apexi PFC: 175rwkw (236rwhp)

Dyno cost was $500 - maybe a touch expensive - but I've never had anything like this done before - and they are experts after all.

Next step is to get a FMIC and PFC boost kit and upping boost to 11/12 or so PSI (R33 series 1). Should be looking for close to 200rwkw (and a burnt clutch no doubt :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17197-power-fc-hc-install-results/
Share on other sites
Gianni Contributor

Gianni

Posted
Posted

Nice work Torrens,

How much better did your car feel in power wise and smoothness when you fitted the power fc? Was it a major gain? dyno results show a significant difference! If you don't mind me asking, how much did the power fc and hand controller cost you? do you actually need to buy the hand controller or do some performance shops already have it to do the tuning themselves?

Anyhow, great work!

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
Posted

thats pretty damn good, considering you are still running the stock intercooler, and stock boost. 175 kw is about what most people make with a front mount intecooler and some boost (with zorst and stuff too).

just make sue you always go back to the same dyno, otherwise comparing results will be inconsistant.

if you dont mind me asking, what was the total cost of installing the powerfc.

$500 aint too bad, and they didn't blow your motor up so i'd be happy.

good stuff

Torrens Collaborator

Torrens

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How much better did your car feel in power wise and smoothness when you fitted the power fc? Was it a major gain? dyno results show a significant difference! If you don't mind me asking, how much did the power fc and hand controller cost you? do you actually need to buy the hand controller or do some performance shops already have it to do the tuning themselves?

The car feels more as if it has way more torque.

I forgot to mention that I told the tuner that I wasn't interested in high HP fiqures I just wanted better "street" performance i.e. more torque. I want the car to do the talking, not the dyno sheet. I'm quite nervous pushing it, I have the feeling that the clutch is going to get hurt if I do - was hard enough convincing the girlfriend of the cost already :P Deep down though, she just wants me to keep trashing those commodores / falcons.

I got this gear second hand through Nengun (should be able to find information on him by doing a search) - cost me $1400 - just before the good AU dollar rise :D

You should be able to pick a set brand new at this price now.

I say get the hand controller - I have already used it to turn of the permanant engine light because the PFC was set to us ethe EBC kit. Without the hand controller, I couldn't do that. It also has the ability to give you plenty of feedback - knock sensor - various temperature settings - any sensor issues - a/f ratios. Plus it'll allow you take it to any tuner without problems.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...