Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Car Wont Start

Kurtis

By Kurtis,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

J-Boy Mentor

J-Boy

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a dead battery, try jumpstarting it with at least 400amp jump cables or jumpstarter or pushstart, last time we tried 200amp cables and it wasn't good enuff as it was losing charge thru too much heat. So far, some of the common problems ive come across fer not being able to start a car are either battery, alternator, ignition plug(somehow my ignition plug came off on my previous r33), dead map sensor etc.

markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted

ok ur lights work..?

how u knw ther is spark..?

i would guess it would take more to power the spark then the injectors..

lights on.. see if it stays on..

u cant roll start it..?

if u can. get a multimeter on it and check the alternator charge rate.. wait its an RB so have fun with that.

get the multi onto the battery .

if its still running turn ur lights on and check the charge rates with lights on it should jump up.. if it drops then its ur alternator.. :P

Kobe 2007 Collaborator

Kobe 2007

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok ur lights work..?

how u knw ther is spark..?

i would guess it would take more to power the spark then the injectors..

lights on.. see if it stays on..

u cant roll start it..?

if u can. get a multimeter on it and check the alternator charge rate.. wait its an RB so have fun with that.

get the multi onto the battery .

if its still running turn ur lights on and check the charge rates with lights on it should jump up.. if it drops then its ur alternator.. ;)

I went to turn my car on last week and it wouldnt.

Changed the batteries and the lights came on in the car, however when i turn the ignition, all i get is like a clicking sound... and the car doesnt start.

Someone help me out to what it could be?

Cheers.

Edited by Kobe 2007
markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted

that my friend is ur starter motor.. click click yo.. check ur rate going into ur starter if u can.. not too hard on RBs.. using a multi meter then.. if its 12.3v it is gonnaneed a starter motor over haul... i can pull it out.. and from memory its around 150 to get it over hauled.. a second hand SM will be around $100 from all jap..

if u need a hand let me knw..

Kobe 2007 Collaborator

Kobe 2007

Posted
Posted
that my friend is ur starter motor.. click click yo.. check ur rate going into ur starter if u can.. not too hard on RBs.. using a multi meter then.. if its 12.3v it is gonnaneed a starter motor over haul... i can pull it out.. and from memory its around 150 to get it over hauled.. a second hand SM will be around $100 from all jap..

if u need a hand let me knw..

thats just great. thanks mate.

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

The "click click click" from the starter can also be because of a dead or low battery...

If the battery is ok then Id be looking at voltage drop first before ripping out the starter...

Easy way to test this is a directlly connect the starter via jumper leads to the battery and by pass the factory wiring.

(sorta like hot wiring the starter, then trip the solinoid with a piece of wire to make it fire)

Another possibility which is most common, you will find that the battery is not holding charge well and may have dropped a cell, how old is your battery??? The voltage may read 12volts when you check it with a multi meter before cranking, but what does that voltage drop to when you hit the key??? Its probablly dropping to lower than 9 volts which will cause the starter to just click... Low voltage = clicking noise...

Try jump starting it to test this theory, but connect the car to another cr and let it just charge for 2-3 minutes before trying as if the battery has dropped a cell then you will not get a result straight away, also have the jumping car running during this waiting time...

markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted

he said the battery was switched over.. but yes try it my way with checking the flow into the started located drivers side of gearbox.. ther is ablack boot pull that off and stick the multimeter onto ther.. and hope u get 12.1-12.8v thats a good range i think... if its good.. roll start her and check charge rate..

Kobe 2007 Collaborator

Kobe 2007

Posted
Posted
he said the battery was switched over.. but yes try it my way with checking the flow into the started located drivers side of gearbox.. ther is ablack boot pull that off and stick the multimeter onto ther.. and hope u get 12.1-12.8v thats a good range i think... if its good.. roll start her and check charge rate..

thanks guys, ill see what i can do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...