Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I just took the 'stock' (or at least I think it is) turbo off my rb20... and when I compared it to the turbo that I have been told is from a Rb25, I noticed something strange.

The compressor wheel on the Rb25 turbo is bigger as expected... however, when I look at the exhaust wheels, the rb20 turbo appears to have a larger exhaust wheel... why would this be?

I would have expected the rb25 would have been bigger at the exhaust wheel as well due to having more gasses passing thru it due to being bolted onto a bigger engine.

I've included pics, can anyone shed some light on this?

Also, when I took the rb20 turbo off, some coolant came out of the dump pipe... again, should this be a concern?

Thanks in advance

RB20 turbo on RHS in this pic:

DSC00248.jpg

RB20 turbo on LHS in this pic:

DSC00247.jpg

Edited by retox
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172063-turbo-help/
Share on other sites

That's weird.

I noticed that the compressor blades are completely different too. I thought they would just be bigger on the RB25's.

Perhaps the turbo on your RB20 has had a rebuild and the exhaust side of the turbo housing has been replaced?

I'm not turbo pro but it is the only thing that seems logical about it.

Have you been able to get your hands on another turbo from a RB20.

Keep us posted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172063-turbo-help/#findComment-3169771
Share on other sites

Was given this reply on another forum:

look att he angle if the fins on the rear turbine side of the turbo's.... the RB20 one has pretty big gaps allowing the exhaust gas to spin the blades easier being on a smaller motor... The RB25 has them closer together to restrict it a bit so it doesnt spool up early. From the pics tho the Rb20 exhaust wheel does appear bigger... Only one way to find out and measure them. Also the Rb20 rear looks newish and the 25 oldish if that makes sense could possibly have been a hi flow... U never know with a second hand turbo unless u measure it all up and know exactly what ur looking for lol.

Liam

does this sound right?... seriosuly lost now as to which would be better on the motor!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172063-turbo-help/#findComment-3170073
Share on other sites

If it has been hi-flowed, wouldnt the compressor wheel be increased in size as well?... not sure.. still new to this turbo business :)

Either ways, hi-flow rb20 item vs stock rb25 item... which would be the better go-er on the RB20?

Also, as mentioned, I'm pretty sure some coolant came out past the exhaust wheel on the rb20 turbo when I was taking it off the motor... should I be concerned about that?

appreciate your input guys :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172063-turbo-help/#findComment-3170118
Share on other sites

Turn the turbos round sideways and compare the iron bearing housings , the later R32 RB20 turbos should be ball bearing and the middle is larger in diametre or fatter if you like . If your RB20 one is skinnier and its exhaust housing bolts are on a smaller pitch circle diametre then its probably an early R31 RB20 bush bearing turbo . These used much smaller compressors in an attempt to spool them early . From memory the exhaust housing A/R was very small and they're not much good for anything .

The Hitachi BB ceramic turbos have a small bolt head in the side of the bearing housing , general consensus is that its some sort of bearing pre load device but anyway only the BB Hitachi's had them - from what I've seen anyway .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172063-turbo-help/#findComment-3170234
Share on other sites

I can't beleive no one's said it yet, but from the top pic, theyr'e both rb20 turbos. nissan motor 16v.

One of them may be the earlier bastardised vg30 with the nissan 16v comp cover, and non op6 rear housing. We'd need more pics of the back housing numbers, and the wheel up closer.

edit: oops, you guys beat me to it. haha

Edited by MANWHORE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172063-turbo-help/#findComment-3170338
Share on other sites

ok, got some better pics.

New Turbo (larger compressor wheel):

Markings on exhaust housing: 5173 near flange, 04U, 8. <--- on front (compressor side) of housing. Nothing on back

new2.jpg

new.jpg

new3.jpg

Old Turbo (Smaller compressor wheel):

Markings on exhaust housing: looks like 0074 (or A) near flange, 2, 8. <--- on front (compressor side) of housing. On rear (exhaust side of housing): B, 59S

old.jpg

old1.jpg

old2.jpg

Sorry about quality of pics - camera phone

Edited by retox
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172063-turbo-help/#findComment-3170356
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...