Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Upgrade

ceffyboy

By ceffyboy,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest a31rb25

Guest a31rb25

Posted
Posted
just for shits and giggles if you were wanting to upgrade your brakes but keep the 4 stud standard set up, whats the best way to go about it?

the best way to go about it would be to work some more hours, quit being a tight arse and get a 5 stud set up.....

Just Jap 5 stud hubs $550

RDA Slotted R33 discs = cheap

Bendix Ultimate pads = cheap

R33 Calipers = cheap

i don't know the RRP prices for the stuff with a 'cheap' price tag as i got all four corners for approx $600 for all rotors, calipers & pads, but that was mate's rates

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3187888
Share on other sites
daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted
just for shits and giggles if you were wanting to upgrade your brakes but keep the 4 stud standard set up, whats the best way to go about it?

There's no need to upgrade to 5 stud unless you have difficulty finding the wheels you want in 4 stud.

The R32/S14 calipers bolt straight on, you have 3 options for discs.

1 - redrill the disc (9 holes) so it's 4/5 stud multifit

2 - buy blank faced R32 rotors from RDA, and have them drilled in 4 stud

3 - buy R33 non turbo rotors (same size but factory 4 stud)

If you upgrade to R33 calipers, buy blank faced R33 rotors and have them drilled in 4 stud.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3189363
Share on other sites
Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted
the best way to go about it would be to work some more hours, quit being a tight arse and get a 5 stud set up.....

Just Jap 5 stud hubs $550

i don't know the RRP prices for the stuff with a 'cheap' price tag as i got all four corners for approx $600 for all rotors, calipers & pads, but that was mate's rates

i would NOT buy these just jap hubs! they are pretty shitty quality and made of a "soft" alloy!

do it properly using nissan gear and you cant go wrong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3189640
Share on other sites
rizzo-xr6 Explorer

rizzo-xr6

Posted
Posted

"the best way to go about it would be to work some more hours, quit being a tight arse and get a 5 stud set up.....

Just Jap 5 stud hubs $550"

ha i work enough hours as it is not being a tight arse, if i wanted 5 stud i would of said so, there was no need to bar up at a simple question. i have the wheels i want in 4 stud..

AND ive seen too many of the JJR 5 stud conversion hubs split in half due to complete dodginess of manufacture...

cheers for the help Daisu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3193163
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • sonicii
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • GTSBoy
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • GTSBoy
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...