Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yep thats what i was referring to. there should be a screw at the back next to accelerator and 2-3 clips next to the driver side door - after you've undone the screw, a little bit of force and the panel should just pop out (be careful though).

you should see a fair few wires etc, gently push them to one side and look upwards towards the right - there should be a hole there. Obviously best to do it in the day light. If you cant see it, pop your bonnet - look at left strut tower - behind that there should be a black box (factory boost sensor) below that is where the hole should be (from memory)

ill take a pic if you want.

Thanks mate. I think I get ya. I'll have a go next time I have day light and time after work. If I am still lost I'll ask for a pic!

hope this helps everyone / anyone (if i've made a mistake someone correct me)

series II rb25det

the pipe below is where i spliced a small section out (no more than 5mm) i put the T piece in, connected the spliced pipe to either end of the T piece, attached piping from the last hole on the T piece which on my boost gauge (2nd pic) will connect to the new boost gauge sensor.

P1010013.jpg

pic of the boost gauge (autogauge from just jap for those playing at home)

pic below is a mock setup of the boost gauge - im guessing most gauges these days come with the small circular filter (top right in the pic below) I cut the tube going from the black boost sensor to the T piece about half way - attached the filter (helps to smooth out the movement of the needle on the boost gauge / stops dirt/crap flowing back into the boost sensor)

P1010011-1.jpg

lastly, pic of the location of the hole i used to run the tubing / wiring in under the drivers side kick panel then up through the steering wheel / under the dash etc ready to be wired up to the cig lighter / ignition etc.

skyline_grounding_kit.jpg

Ok, intensely frustrating. I took the kick board off and tried to feed the line through down there... no sign of it. So I took a box off with the letter "J" and looked behind it and it seems like an inclosed panel with a wall where my line should be coming through.

Hmmm. Is the reason that I cannot find it because I am using a bendy/curly bit of pipe that came with the gauge? It may not be reaching down there.

Am I looking in the right place?

cheers,

Dan

P.S. Thanks for the photos! Though I think the connecting the T bit seems the easy part.

Hey defari,

Looks like we lost those last few posts! I am still keen for that pic. As I said in the wiped post, the furtherest I got was getting it into the side panel behind the wheel. I am guessing this is not the route because I could find no way through to the foot-bay area.

thank you for your time!

the grommet you can use is one the right hand side of the accelerator pedal and the bonnet release cable goes through it, just peel back the sound deadener and then put it back once the line is fed, then in the engine bay use some pointy nose pliers to grab it. the hole is pretty much in between the firewall and the drivers side tower, oval shape hole.

another thing i reckon looks good if you mount your gauge up on the dash is running the vac/boost line through the dash via a small hole. ill post a photo tomorrow, looks pretty neat and you can do the same with oil pressure gauge.

Edited by PaulosECR33
the grommet you can use is one the right hand side of the accelerator pedal and the bonnet release cable goes through it, just peel back the sound deadener and then put it back once the line is fed, then in the engine bay use some pointy nose pliers to grab it. the hole is pretty much in between the firewall and the drivers side tower, oval shape hole.

another thing i reckon looks good if you mount your gauge up on the dash is running the vac/boost line through the dash via a small hole. ill post a photo tomorrow, looks pretty neat and you can do the same with oil pressure gauge.

FINALLY! After much toil and suffering, it is done!

I sent it up through the bonnet release catch's grommet and managed to find it and pull it through to the engine bay. For others who try to do it this way... the grommet that the bonnet catch runs through must have a sock-like thing that the cable runs through after the grommet. I tried for ages to push the vac/boost line through but it always only made it a couple of cm and wouldn't go any further. I pushed a number 8 wire up there in the end and poked a hole through the sock and then sent the vac/boost line up through that hole (I had to push and feel for it). I hope there isn't anything wrong with doing it like that...

Glad that nightmare is over for such an apparently simple process.

Edited by senilykSkylines
  • 3 months later...

I thought this was going to be easier than it has turned out. I just can't get my fingers (or pliers) down to grab the wire I stuck through from the cabin. Attached image shows where I'm looking. I just can't get it. Is there a way to find it from in the wheel well and poke it up? I had envisaged it just being a grommet on a clear spot of the firewall but noooo.

post-76983-0-63857600-1292719956_thumb.jpg

Edited by Gen18
  • 5 years later...

hope this helps everyone / anyone (if i've made a mistake someone correct me)

series II rb25det

the pipe below is where i spliced a small section out (no more than 5mm) i put the T piece in, connected the spliced pipe to either end of the T piece, attached piping from the last hole on the T piece which on my boost gauge (2nd pic) will connect to the new boost gauge sensor.

P1010013.jpg

pic of the boost gauge (autogauge from just jap for those playing at home)

pic below is a mock setup of the boost gauge - im guessing most gauges these days come with the small circular filter (top right in the pic below) I cut the tube going from the black boost sensor to the T piece about half way - attached the filter (helps to smooth out the movement of the needle on the boost gauge / stops dirt/crap flowing back into the boost sensor)

P1010011-1.jpg

lastly, pic of the location of the hole i used to run the tubing / wiring in under the drivers side kick panel then up through the steering wheel / under the dash etc ready to be wired up to the cig lighter / ignition etc.

skyline_grounding_kit.jpg

Old thread, but I'm hoping people are still using this valuable information - I did my Autotechinca boost gauge today for the first time as a bit of a trial and could not have done it without this information - take a bow sir.

p.s took me all f$@&ing day haha

Thanks!

hope this helps everyone / anyone (if i've made a mistake someone correct me)

series II rb25det

the pipe below is where i spliced a small section out (no more than 5mm) i put the T piece in, connected the spliced pipe to either end of the T piece, attached piping from the last hole on the T piece which on my boost gauge (2nd pic) will connect to the new boost gauge sensor.

P1010013.jpg

pic of the boost gauge (autogauge from just jap for those playing at home)

pic below is a mock setup of the boost gauge - im guessing most gauges these days come with the small circular filter (top right in the pic below) I cut the tube going from the black boost sensor to the T piece about half way - attached the filter (helps to smooth out the movement of the needle on the boost gauge / stops dirt/crap flowing back into the boost sensor)

P1010011-1.jpg

lastly, pic of the location of the hole i used to run the tubing / wiring in under the drivers side kick panel then up through the steering wheel / under the dash etc ready to be wired up to the cig lighter / ignition etc.

skyline_grounding_kit.jpg

Old thread, but I'm hoping people are still using this valuable information - I did my Autotechinca boost gauge today for the first time as a bit of a trial and could not have done it without this information - take a bow sir.

p.s took me all f$@&ing day haha

Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
×
×
  • Create New...